WIP - Painting/Converting/Sculpting General

How can I turn pic related into something similar to the Space Marine Mk. VI 'Corvus' Beakie Helmet?

I am a greenstuff noob, is it possible and if so how.

Just got a Rogue Trader era marine from Ebay and I think he's welded to this base. What the fuck is this?

I once bought an entire lot of older models that turned out to be hotglued to their plastic base.

It was less than ideal.

It's about time for a new one anyway. Half the posts are replies to the Duncan meme.

Does anyone have tips for spray priming with grey? I'm finding it real fucking hard to tell if I got good coverage or not.

Use a well lit space to see if the finish is good. Spraying white on white resin has been a pain in the ass for me, if I miss something I fix it manually with a brush.

The base was pewter at least so it was easy enough to snip off. I would like to meet the asshole that decided to weld his fucking space marine to a hexagonal base

I like the one with the giant phoenix head, and I hope it never has arms.

Good Tempestus Scion schemes?

It wouldn't be difficult to simply extend the muzzle into the cone shape. Just make sure to use a wet tool to finish the sculpt so there aren't fingerprints.

Oh yay, a thread where my question is relevant.

I'm trying to convert a deffkopta into a warbike. I do have a problem though - I can't decide what wheel to use 1,2 or 3. I have only 1 copy of wheel №1(sadly), have like 8 whole wheels №2 and few of №3. I wanted to cut bigger wheels in half and cover them up with deffkopta leftovers using this youtube tutorial. youtube.com/watch?v=PdL38W7BuzA

What do you think, are №2 and №3 way too big and just won't fit bike? I have my doubts, but I've already wasted my money on those wheels and now I'm salty. Also if anyone could share an advice for what kind of scale/vehicle wheels I should look for I'd be grateful.

P.S. to user who answered to me in previous-previous thread, your jetbike conversion looked amazing, I'm jealous.

THICC
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Wouldn't surprise me if that was the supplied base. Things were less standardized in those days.

>No elf climbing the hind legs
Awful

Thanks, I want to make sure I get the angle right so it doesn't look to stubby and I am not sure how to support the arcs.
I am afraid it will look like one of the Plague Doctors with the long beak masks, ya know?
I had a better view of the helmet.

Looks gorgeous dude!

Do people actually play the LOTR game in your area? I don't think I've ever actually seen someone play it.

There actually is one. The OP just forgot to put WIP in the topic.

You shouldn't lie.

Hot damn that looks metal as fuck. You did a really good job with his face. Do you a better angle on his sword?

Huh? I haven't seen anyone play the LOTR game. In my area it's all 40k and Fantasy.

How does she look so far?

And here is her booty!

Why is the base so shoddily painted, could you just not be arsed to finish it nicely? If you took more care the whole whole thing would look better over all. The same goes for the brown sheet bits on its back, it needs more shade or something as they lack depth, and whole areas like that detract from the rest of it.

It's always nice to see someone else posting Malifaux stuff on here. She's coming along nicely. I'm not really too keen on the skintone though, it's just personal preference but I like my gremlins to a bit more towards the yellowy green end of the spectrum.

Might have been the case. Looks just like the base in that catalogue except it was solid metal. He's rebased on a 32mm base now and getting prepped to join a tactical squad. Also don't strip resin in alcohol because I just ruined a Kromlech assault cannon by doing that.

What's the best for stripping paint off metal minis?

I never pay attention everytime it's talked about here

Acetone

Nail polish remover that has acetone in it.. that being said DON"T use it on plastic.

The 1/35 german guy from a couple threads back reporting in. Assembled all the figures, partially converted the Unteroffizier and Schutze Ein (the first is now a Leutnant with P08, other got the screaming face).

And the back view.

Well #1 (FW nob biker?) looks like it would have to be used on the rear only unless you wanna get needlessly creative, but nothing's saying you can't use it with other wheels, I mean the kit it comes from doesn't look like it has any identical tires either, so you could mix it with #2 or #3. Can we get front views of the wheels? It could give a little more of an idea of what might look good.

which one you guys prefer?

also some models of my army in the pic to show how they are usually colored

Number 1 for me.

Skin tone seems rather zombielike.

Left fits the best I'd say, mid as second.

Just make sure it ends up a lot neater, since all three look a lot like, well, quickly painted test pieces, and not in the "field applied improvised camo" sense.

I recommend using a toothpick for doing the small dots.

Thats how i did my SS

If you're keeping the same ruins-style bases, I'd say go for #1. BUT do a quick test with adding a bit of olive drab to the tan like a faint sage color, or swap it out with a gray that leans slightly green. Compare end results and if that adds a little more contrast that you appreciate.

uhm, N2 is made with a green that goes for gray, i could add a bit of black wash like the nuln oil before applying the pattern.

Buzz Buzz

Just doing some weathering today.

As requested

What's a Vampire without a bloodstained cape?

As requested/2

Oh lord, where do I start...
Well, first things first, this is my first mini in months. I have literally not had any cravings what so ever to paint, play or read during a long period of time.
And this model, I have to say, privateer press isn't known for their high quality (what ever the fanboys over at warmahordes may tell you), but this box takes the price!
I have never scraped of so many mold lines on a model before! I didn't even have this much pre-work on my forge world knight! And the material they used?!? Yea sure pp, "its the same as always, just added color", well fuck you with a nailbat! This is certainly NOT the same material we are used to, unless chewing gum was part of your original ingredient. The shit is like hardened rubber, you just cant "scrape" the mold lines of, you have to cut each and every mm of this model to make it appear clean. Then you have to repair damage... oh for fuck sake, Ill let you figure it out yourself.
The model is bad, thats all I'm getting at!

Somewhere near end stage wip. Pretty pleased in regards to what I had to work with.

The starter boxes were fucking garbage molds and everybody knows it. check my goreshade3 right above yours if you want to see what an actual model they gave a fuck about looks like before you have a hissy.

jesus christ

Sorry for late reply, just returned home.
I don't know where #1 is from, just got it as a "bonus".

I know that almost anything can work with orks, but sometimes bits you are working with are too ridiculous.

Oh I have been playing since the start of mk2, and have several fully painted armies to this game. Thus my punch that they ain't famous for high quality models. But as you say, the starter box models where under all critique in terms of quality.
Normally its a case of bad resin/plastic, in comparison to the metal models, and impractical solutions in terms of assembly (like a wobbly knee-joint to thin to hold a heavy jack upright, thats where we put the glue point.... I mean what the fuck pp?!?).

They usually have some great concept, a cool fluff and awesome concept art to "lift" the overall quality of their miniatures. Its a full experience so to speak, not to mention I love how the game plays. But that doesn't give the right to cheat potentially new players. Hell, I was almost about to buy the 2 p box for hordes, until I saw the contents of the Cryx box.

from what company that model came from? Warmachine, i guess?

Goreshade, Lord of Ruin a mounted Warcaster for Warmachine.
privateerpress.com/warmachine/gallery/cryx/warcasters/goreshade-lord-of-ruin

hey guys, just started painting and i wasn't liking how my first model was looking. all i could find was a spray bottle of simple green, is there anything else that i can order or find in store in melbourne australia that would do a better job and also come in a larger container?

Yeah, they're no GW that's for damn sure. Ill basg on GW for forever fo r their rules, but I've never had a problem with any of their models since 5th ed dropped. They're jaw droppingly beautiful at times, but PP just makes some awful choices. Bane Witch Agathia would look amazing in metal where that dress detail could shine, but this PVC shit they used made even cxlassics like the slayer look like ass with the damage removing the sprue causes, and like you said MOOOOOOLLLLDDD LIIIIINNNNEEESSSS that NEVER COME OFF

If it's metal, then acetone nail polish remover to brake parts/carburetor cleaner work great. Simple Green works best if you leave it in a sealed container, and non-acetone polis remover works, but not being in either of your hemispheres, can't say if there's something better down there.

All my models are plastic so I'll try look around for larger amounts of simple green. Thanks friend.

>Getting so tired of having to edge highlight my tacmarines
>Probably gonna start drybrushing

You don't need to "frame" the models, just edge where the light would edge naturally. This way you also save strength to do multiple edge highlights, to increase the effect of light reflecting.

They are about 20% done, don't even kid yourself!

I'm looking for an easy winter themed way of basing my figures.
My two suggestions are technical mud, static grass and some snow. Or a industrialised city, complete with broken pipes, rails and other bricks and bobs + snow.
Have I missed something obvious?

>tfw want to give my pathfinder "spotter" model the binoculars arm but It would look retarded using it with the helmet on
>tfw i fucking hate using bare heads for anyone but special characters/HQs

It's legit ruining my aesthetic.

Best paint scheme for Skitarii? Thinking either the stereotypical red or a black cloak lined with red.

Best scheme for Scions? Thinking brass on white.

I'm painting demo armies for Kill Team. I did test models for my Skitarii in Castellan Green and brass but they look very similar to my marines... who are also Castellan Green and brass. I'd like to make the armies visually distinct. The Tau I painted are dark blue.

Holy fuck, how do you choose a damn color?

I want to paint grey skin, but there are Dawnstone, Warpfiend Grey, Eshin Grey, Mechanicus Standard Grey..

How do you know when to choose which color so you like it?
Looks the paint in the bottle the same as dry?

Chassis for my first Knight pretty much done. Thoughts? I went for a very well-maintained look.

Grey skin? Eshin, wash with Nuln Oil, highlight with Eshin. Highlight with Dawnstone. Personally how I'd do it.
I look up visual examples of the colors. The shades on the pot are usually accurate though.

Thanks for your answer.
Where exactly do you search for the paint colors?

I tried YouTube but most often I find something with bad lighting or where it's used as highlight where I can't imagine what it would look like as main color.

Also, what's the difference to the "chaos" greys as in slaanesh / warpfiend grey?

Looks great. are you magnetizing the armor and everything?

>But that doesn't give the right to cheat potentially new players.

Not that I'm a fan of the shitty PVC plastic they use, but the models are at least workable, and the starter boxes are cheap as fuck. I grabbed a starter for $36 brand new, when they were released. I hardly call that cheating new players. If/when they release a metal version of Xekaar, yea I'll probably grab that to replace the pvc one, but honestly it's not like it's a horrible model.

Besides that, it seems the newest releases have stopped using that shitty PVC plastic, so hopefully PP is moving away from that trend.

No, I've only magnetized the weapon options. The armour will be glued on once painted.

You should consider magnetizing the mask at least so you can swap them out.

I see people doing that a lot, but I don't really see the point. I will put the helm on with superglue however, so it can potentially be taken off if I really regret my choice of helm.

>I see people doing that a lot, but I don't really see the point

Variety is the spice of life.

I found this, I say this should be the new swarm lord

1. Cute! CUTE!
2. I didn't know there was a use for the Maleceptor.

My LGS's owner is nice, and since he has a paint rack in the back for shop terrain/models, he just does swatches on bare sprues when I'm in. Otherwise, there's things like the paint chart on dakkadakka that are mostly up to date, or Duncan's videos.

The Maleceptor is one of those kits cursed to look awesome but absolutely suck ass, so reusing the head like this is a great idea, I'd have kept the swarm lords 4 arms and swords

stomped the shit out of that church

glue a bunch of different shaped rocks to your base, and paint them in a blue base layered to white like ice crystals.
then use snow in and around the rocks to complement it

frozen tundra
you can still dot in some colour like helmets or broken pipes or stuff

Buzz Buzzo?

Best Metallic paint?

But is the paint chart on dakkadakka precise enough to show the look of the color? I thought it's just about which paints across different producers are similar.

Also, I sadly cant find a single video of Duncan painting grey skin. He betrayed me

I've only use Vallejo and Citadel. Vallejo Metallic Air series, without a doubt, is the best. The white-cap Citadel metallics (Retributor Armour, Stormhost Silver, etc.) are the runner-up and easily beat their old metallics like Balthasar Gold (which is probably better off working a basecoat to layer towards brass or bronze)

Model or game air?

What would you use as undercoat and base?
I want to paint tyranids similar to the "standard" on the boxes, but with grey skin, stronger purple on the carapace and light green claws etc.

White undercoat and Rakarth Flesh or what else would you recommend?

Just have to do some basing and he's ready for the front lines.

Would really love some opinions on the weapons options for a raptor lord I'm building.

ALLOFEM

Finally got my Genestealers primed, or at least I think they're primed. Either I'm having a hard time telling paint from plastic, or I got really good coverage.

First time using a liquid mask to cover where I want to use glue later, too. The Vallejo stuff works well.

Yea that should be fine. I usually use white undercoat for everything, makes it easy to not miss the details of the model, as opposed to black sometimes.

Where did you get the bits for the base?

Looks like the plates from the old GW 40k building kits. Not sure which set, or if they still sell those, hopefully they do.

Does anyone know how well Marine torsos fit Scion legs?

I want to know this as well.

Don't have my camera, but this will have to do.
Finished winterizing my ratlings!
Greenstuff is a pain.