WIP - Painting/Converting/Sculpting General

Im going off topic here but his pose looks like something out of JoJo's Bizarre Adventure and his sword looks like something from Berserk, great job man.

If you find it too thin to stick, just add a brush worth of fresh paint back to it and you should be good.

I almost always add too much water and have to do just that.

I was stripping some secondhand minis of their paint and the primer seems like it may have actually seeped INTO the plastic... it's metallic gold and I was planning on painting the minis with a base coat of PP Cold Steel.
Does it sound like I'm gonna have a problem, or should I be alright?

You're not wrong there. He is supposed to be not!Guts from Berserk

What size magnets do you guys recommend for magnetizing bullgryn? Particularly the shields.

So here is the starweaver I have been working on. Not sure if you guys can tell I was trying a space/galaxy theme.

That is green and this side is purple. My troupes are going to be green and purple.

highlighted the gold with silver to show the models lighting. still a ways to go.

So, the more that I work with it, the more I hate my current color scheme. What would work as a good sept color to accent Stegadon Scale Green, Leadbelcher, and black? I've been using red for Vior'la and I HAVE to stop after this model.

A friend recommended I get some of this for model assembly. I'm doing Warhammer minis.

Should I? Someone else told me to just get some Gorilla Glue superglue, which would certainly be cheaper. I don't really want to make a $5 difference ruin $150 worth of models however.

Also, any brush brand recommendations?

don't use CA glue on plastic models

also don't use the thickest of all glues don't fall for the stupid gorilla meme

just use something like GW's plastic glue if you're unsure

So in other words the Testors is a good buy?

Grimy suit is way too grimy. Anyone have any idea how the hell to paint proper rust/weathering on one of these? Typhus Corrosion is how Duncan does it in his guide, but "paint into recesses"- there AREN'T recesses on this thing.

Also, I'm and still looking for input.

So I picked up a box of Demigyrph knights, cuz i think they look damn cool, and I wanted to do at least one in the royal altdorf gyrphites' scheme, pic related

They mounts are a mix of snow leopards and a gray raptor head. I figured a wash on the head would get some nice texturing but anyone have tips for getting the spots to look like not shit?

I've heard good things about the testors model masters but haven't used it personally

I use tamiya myself because I like the brush applicator over the nozzle.

Which Tamiya? The Extra thin or the normal?

normal is easier to use but extra thin is good for extreme precision

this is a video that shows both
youtube.com/watch?v=5TwFxTEUf2s

when working with plastic cement be careful not to apply too much, and open a window - huffing the chemicals in plastic cement causes severe nerve damage

is there a torrent up for the painting guide for BoP?

Wet blending is the only tip I can give you. Just do the spots while the paint is still drying so there is a bit of transition on it.

Does anyone know where I could find assembly instructions for ork mek gunz?

tell me...you're thinning your paints, right user?

WHERE WAS THIS PICTURE FROM???

My paints are thinning themselves.

Seriously, I don't know what it is you guys do that needs them thinned down so much; well-shaken, out of the pot, my base paints come out like a shade. All of them.

I tried to do some research on old grandma titties. I don't think it really helped with the painting so far...

youtube.com/watch?v=nJEkGExjHcc

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love it mate. are those 28mm? i want that in my frostgrave band

I suggest superglue brand superglue gel. It doesn't bind to oily surfaces unlike most other superglues, so you won't spend hours trying to remove any that gets on your fingers.

Gorilla Glue is the wrong tool for the job no at any rate.

Kingdom Death is 30mm, and that model was a kickstarter-only promo model.

You'll have to go to ebay for it, but be prepared for bootlegs.

Iron hands for 30k, trying to sort out the armour, got some semblance of the FW oil stained look but it's not where I want it to be, got a can of Tamiya smoke spray coming and that might be what it needs

it doesn't show up well in the photos but there is a gradient in spots around the model

>
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I already used washes before I took that pic. Should I use more?

>also don't use the thickest of all glues don't fall for the stupid gorilla meme
The properties of CA glue change significantly with viscosity. The thinner it is the stronger the bond. The thicker it is, the more shock resistant the bond is. Really thick CA is appropriate sometimes but it's definitely not general purpose.

Also be aware that thicker CA has a shorter shelf life - about 3months unrefridgerated for regular CA gel, less for really thick stuff.

Duuuuuude nice work :) keep on keepin' on postin, love seeing other/more KDM stuff. I wish I had him T-T

I've been on 12hr days at work for awhile now, not been able to paint, cant wait until Dec. to git goin. Got all this (and more as this is old photo) primed and ready!

progress log for today
>found an old conversion of mine, fixed it up a bit, slopped it on a base. It will be my third obliterator.
>put hella shade all over the four marines and rhino. This actually took a really long time to shade that whole tank!

Tomorrow I will start going at base coating all the browns and silvers, and ponder a bit as how best to proceed with the 25 cultists that have their base color applied but nothing else (hint, slather tons of agrax earthshade all over everything)

Fuck metal PP models.

I have a bunch of old Legion shit that I decided to fix up and put back together.

I figured I'd start with my Scythean. Everything is warped, glue doesn't stick, and it broke my drill bit when I tried to pin it. Even then, the shit I pinned didn't stick. There's also a fuckhuge gap connecting the torso to the legs. Pic related.

Fuck this shit.

I'm broke as shit. Is their anything besides the speedstick land speeder, the diy baneblade and gobsmasha tanks that have offical GW scratch building instructions?

It's possible, though unlikely that they used vinyl die.

Posting what I have. I'm even interested in non GW stuff. pls help. I play orks and chaos, if it matters.

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Show more user, it looks great, if a bit flat. Must be the camera.

Please assist, fellow anons. I'm poor as shit and out of plasticard, plasticard rods, and greenstuff and feel the need to build.

The more I work on these guys, the more I realize that I kind of prefer them without camo.

Also, I really need help working on faces, I just cannot get eyes down. Are there any good video tutorials out there? I have read a few but I tend to do better by watching someone do something like this. Thankfully most models have helmets but a few have bare heads and theyll have to be done properly.

nice, those came out clean

also these are still very much in progress, only the two middle guys are even remotely close to being done. Still got a lot of weathering and highlighting to do, and the faces obviously.

LOCTITE
O
C
T
I
T
E

seriously just go to Walmart and get loctite super glue. Thank me later

Paper hammer it faggot

that's what i'm doing you dumb nigger.

So how can we assist you then?

I was asking for more scratchbuilding instructions, done by heavy metal or GW

>memeing
>using CA glue on plastic models
pls user you are better than this

Asked last night at hhg, but since no one answered, I will try my luck here. In fact, I think I should have asked here first.

Don't have any of those, but I can give some advice:
Check out armormans thread on eli pataroch (just search in google) for templates of every imperial vehicle and a few xeno ones to loot, and ALWAYS chip and rivet your scratch builds. If you are working in paper and cardboard the cardboard can be 'chipped' with a pair of small scissors while square rivets can be made by cutting tiny squares from cardboard and glueing them where needed. Best of luck user and remember to post progress!

Actually I use loctite too. The bottle is amazing. Doesn't dry out or get stuck. The applicator allows you to get the right amount out. 100% agree with this user. Also if you use the right amount supergluing plastics is fine. It's a lot stronger bond. Only tricky thing is if you have two gun peices that link like nid or necron guns for example. But once you get the hang of it its great.

Okay, but is there going to be a problem with me painting over it? Should I prime again just in case, or would that just make more problems?

I recently made a trukk.
I'm not the best scratch builder or mini painter, but I like what I did.

No problem whatsoever omae

The trukk looks swell user. Do you want critique on it?

Feel free to give me some, always looking to improve on my scratchbuilds Shitty lighting because it's 3 am and I know I still need to finish my yellow, but these things take many, many layers.

The only big things I can really see are chipping and minor detail like armour bolted on the wheels and stupid wee stuff like door hinges and crap. Other than that its a solid build.

Reposting. I think i missed the last thread but whatever.

That spider monster thing in the middle... paint that one first. It looks so cool

Eyes are barely visible at that scale user.
Besides, these guys wear helmets which casts a shadow over their eyes anyway. Especially if you look on them from above, like from a tabletop point of view.
I wouldn't bother with eyes and just use a brown or flesh wash for the faces.

>It's a lot stronger bond.

Its fucking not.

You are a good painter but you really need to start using glaze medium to soften those layers.

I'd go for dark and reflective

! already means "the opposite of" when put in front of a name/variable, so that's a !negative.

any guides for painting 30k thousand sons?

Check this tutorial, it was of great help when i paint some tau suits.

m.youtube.com/watch?v=kasEpLchmCI

there should be the painting guide coming with Burning of Prospero somewhere around.

I think you dont get many responses as they are really solid, but nothing extraordinary. I guess they're going to be played, and on the tabletop they will look really cool. The claw of the ork in the middle looks kinda flat, but that may be the photo.

Gave an expansive reply a couple of threads ago, maybe 4 at this point. I've seen no changes since.

>can spend 90 dollars on Legion with sub
>or buy 2 trukks
Fuck

arms look really thin and weird like something made of cereal boxes. also a bit flat but like other user said could be the camera

Hi, I'm looking to repaint my old Emperors Children I painted 8 years ago in a better color scheme, kinda like pic related. Less pink, more flesh colored, can someone help me out what color they might have used for this?

I don't know if GW has ever done a noise marine tutorial, but I'd imagine that's pink on top of a yellow or orange base.

Thanks, I think you're close, pic related seems to be my answer.

this is really beyond tabletop level when you look at what most people will throw together before they play. its way beyond a 3 color minimum with solid highlighting and shading, and good base effects. some people cant even prime their minis before they play with them

They're good tabletop standard, nothing more. If you want to argue that some people don't even bring painted models, then you are quite retarded.

That's the thing with /wip/, though, great models get lots of comments and subpar models get lots of comments. Average, as these are, don't get too many. Especially as OP didn't even say what areas he's unsure of. If he chimed in and said: 'Tips on red armor/on waethering/whatever', one could give better advice.

I know nothing about historical wargaming, so I ask you, /wip/, are there any good celt/gaul models around? Romans acceptable in a pinch.

Not a very good picture, from a not very good phone. But a good idea of what the colors and appearance of this army in progress is. Only problem is under artificial light, the bases (black) can look really shiny, which is ugly. Not sure how to fix.

There is /hwg/ (historical wargames general). I assume they are the experts.

My little advise: Check Warlord Games "Hail Caesar" range. they should have some minis. If there are other, better minis on the market somewhere.. idk.

store.warlordgames.com/collections/gallic-celts

Some stuff is plastic, others are metal.

Thanks, mang.

I'm not a big fan of over the top OSL, but that lantern screams for a glow effect! If you don't know how, learn fast, because it (to me at least) brings down the model. Now you have a yellow painted can, with a tint of glow on the edges of the lantern, cape, and the closest part of his pants, you got an actual candle inside!

Real nice user, clean and straight. You worked wonders with that edge highlight as well, really getting some definition out of all those edges, combined with that fine line shading, looks really great!

I would go for a classical glass/ruby effect. From dark, almost black, to orange/yellow, then a tint of white dot at the corner of black/brown to finish the effect.

And again, same comment as before. The unit looks good, but;
You need some blood on those axes, now stop being lazy and get some Blood for the Bloodgod!
And stop fishing for compliments, because this is all you will get until then.

Latest hormagaunt, I'm only working with about 8 different paints. Thoughts?

That's looking good user. I'm gonna be trying glazes to get that FW effect soon for the mkiii I have. Looking forward to seeing more IH

then /wip/ is shit. id love to see more "tabletop standard" finished armies posted to this thread. its nice to get a good high quality, golden daemon tier NMM masterpiece every once in a while, but its also good to see people have the balls and the patience to finish their models, to be proud of their work and to want to show it off. i wasn't here to see if he posted this image 3 or 4 times before, but its heartening to see someone working towards completing their project.