WIP - Painting/Sculpting/Converting General

To the user with the diy skyshield in the last thread:
It really depends on what you are going for. If it is just a generic landing pad, give it a rim, maybe with lights and add gubbins like a fuel drum and hose, some tools etc. Its looking pretty good so far tho.

I recently picked up a few models from a friend who had no use for some space wolves. I reckon I've done alright, but I want to write his name on one of the parchments.

Any tips on how I should do that, and which parchment would look best? (Right pauldron or chest)

Does anyone know a good guide for painting orange armor? I want to paint my BB orcs orange but haven't really ever painted orange before.
Get one of those fine tipped gundam markers.

Looking for opinions on basing, attached are 2 preliminary shapes using sculpey and a texture roller.
Left style sits over the taper and from the top you cannot see the base at all
Right style is cut at the same taper angle as the base.
Opinions on what would look best or what could be improved on?

amazon.co.uk/UNI-BALL-PIN-BLACK-0-05mm/dp/B00A7BSEKK/ref=sr_1_1?s=officeproduct&ie=UTF8&qid=1480506860&sr=1-1&keywords=0.05 pen

How about Tau Sept Orange?

XV-88 - Base
Tau Light Ochre - Layer
Agrax - all over wash
Ungor Flesh - Highlight

As demonstrated by former WarhammerTV employee Emma

youtube.com/watch?v=diSho6SVa94&list=PL3lM6q3XSpms-TJ_KfVt6RkBHM0yO-F8M&index=86

I've got some basic goodies for my person (whomever that may be)

I'm also converting and painting a silly little something to include and will be painting that this weekend after I head to my LGS and buy something else. The plan is to ship out no later than 7th December

We have it, but not by that brand. When I hear people refer to it here, it's poster tack (or sometimes sticky tack).

> former WarhammerTV employee Emma
F

I use Flayed One Flesh instead of Ungor flesh for the highlights but it's a good guide.

Yes, my other half is a Seppo and she just says "tack" / "It's tacked to the fridge" / "stop fucking tacking things onto the bare wall"

Moving away from GW because they stopped doing WHFB and my army is more or less complete (I only lack something like 2 kits I'm not interested in). I'm going to start something new, probably a nice historical army, but I'm torn between different ancient factions or an italian Renaissance one.

So I have a broken NECA blue Warrior Alien (/toy/ poster here, pls no bully) and I'm thinking of using its mortal remains as conversion fodder. Now most of the body will make excellent 'Nid bitz (I'm thinking of using the majority of it, with lots of extra bitz and sculptwork of course, to build a cheap Dimachaeron or Dominatrix) but some of the parts, particularly the head and back pieces, look like they'd make for good parts for my Slaanesh CSM/Daemon forces. Anyone got any other ideas for what to do with him?

(FWIW most of the body is intact but the neck joint is irreparably broken. I did think about making him into a 1:12 scale Genestealer but keeping it articulated might be a tad ambitious.)

Who /Darkest Dungeon/ here?

Holy shit, did you do those user?

I prefer right, desu

user, where did you get, plz

I did these in the time off I had for thanks giving. I think they came out nifty.

here is the other side. They are split purple and green down the middle.

Sauce?

So usually I prime my necrons black, base them in Leadbelcher and then smother them in army painter darktone.
I noticed that army painter do colour primers including a gun metal one. Should I just use that and basically replace the first two processes? Anyone got any experience with this?

No. Colour primers are usually not as good as the normal black/white primers. I'd still prime black first.

What about if I use lead belcher spray over a prime black model?

This is why i want to start airbrushing
If this is somehow not airbrushed i am in awe

There is no reason to not use a spray to speed up your process though.

Not sure if the two colors match though.
The Army Painter spray might be a little lighter.

That's fine. I frequently do that.

Nurgle DP WIP

I really need a new phone/camera.

Spray Base colour is awesome.

Here are my necrons using that technique.

...

...

Jesus Christ that grin
Keep us or at least me updated

What's your exact process and tools if you don't mind me asking.
They look very similar to mine, so this is promising.

Spray Army Painter Gun Metal
Wash 3/4 Nuln oil - 1/4 Agrax mix
Rust Pigment to one's own preference
Edgelight stormhost silver sparingly

This entire army took like ... 2 weeks

I just blu-tack these fuckers to my table

That's exactly what I had in my head.
Except I'll replace nuln with army painter strong tone. But it seems to give the desired effect. Thanks user. I'm gonna give this a go.

I've got an email coming your way, just need to sit down after work so I can read the email off the image. What's the current count?

WIP-secret-santa-2016 AT yandex DOT com

Haven't count since last time, but we should get close to 50 participants.

Help WIP im terrible and have no idea how to paint a good loincloth for my warhammer Deldar army.

no matter what colours i use it comes out flat and boring, even with a wash. How do you paint a good cloth?

You could try a leather-ish effect by dabbling paint instead of regularly painting it on.

Why are the colour primers inferior?

Anyone got nice color scheme ideas for krieg? Including the vehicles that will complement the infantry. I dont want to screw this up and start over because i didnt like the scheme.

Rakarth flesh
Seraphim Sepia/Agrax Earthshade/Reikland Fleshshade wash
Drybrush Rakarth Flesh
Light Drybrush/highlight Rakarth Flesh+Pallid Wych Flesh mixes until you're happy.

Come on, don't just leave us hanging.
I googled it because I saw it before, first result back from reverse image search is from Reddit.

just resent mine, I didn't get a confirmation email so I wasn't sure if it was received.

truly amazing

this is going in a really great fucked up direction

love that color scheme

Working on some 'ard boyz, what do you think about this pose WIP?

How do you feel about paints and brushes as a gift?
I suck at making presents

I know what you were trying to do but it doesn't quite look natural.
Maybe look at some video footage of somebody throwing something and freeze frame the moment you are trying to portrait here.
The torso needs to be twisted just like the right leg to make it seem more natural.

That said, I knew instantly what he was doing so it's definitely working.
Just saying it could look a bit more natural.

You the guy from Canada? I got your address the first time and also did confirm it. I send you a 2nd confirmation. Let me know if you got it this time.

Its certainly /WIP/-related, so why not.
Besides, its not up to me to judge your present user.

I like it, but as the other user said it doesn't look like he's throwing it naturally really. Kinda get the impression the grenade weighs a ton and he's almost falling over from it. Orks tho

maybe if the head was more looking toward where he's throwing somehow

Tried to rescue this rhino i made with 12 years but it didnt turn out well. Would you field him or discard him as terrain?

My camera is actually a cleverly disguised potato.

It only took three months to work up the will, but I done did my Tanks starter kit finally.

I mean, some shading and additional colors for contrast would make him a lot better. The textured paint job is odd but you wont notice it so much on a game board. If you're bothered by the gaps then you can use green stuff to fix. Or even disassemble/reassemble if you used super glue and not plastic cement.

>Tried to rescue this rhino i made with 12 years but it didnt turn out well. Would you field him or discard him as terrain?

Is this photo pre- or post-rescue effort? If you haven't tried yet, maybe you could scrub that stuff off with non-acetone nail polish remover and return it to service.

>Do not waste what The Emperor provides!

Does that mini not have primer, though? You can see the gray through the chips on the first.

>Does that mini not have primer, though? You can see the gray through the chips on the first.

It might, but for less than two dollars, I can get enough non-acetone nail polish remover from Walmart to easily do the whole Rhino. Wouldn't that be worth it just to see before administering The Emperor's Peace?

Post rescue. I fucked up with the non acetone part, thats is the "corrosion" you can see in the lowest part. The gaps still exist because 12 years old me used the fuckin best glue in the world at the time. Please notice how thick the marine is and how a part of the tracks is from a leman russ.

I got it, thank you! I don't know what was up with the last one, but I never got a confirmation.

Onward with the bloodclaws next or might break it up with the gunship.

Everything bar the eyes is good, and as is always the case, the bad eyes ruin everything. An easy fix, just go above and below them with some of the flesh colour. As it is now, you've painted the eyesockets as well - the clearest example of this is the guy on the far right. Huge, crazy crossed eyes. Other than that, they look good. Hair on second from left could do with some highlights as it's a little flat but everything else looks very neat and crisp.

I'm about to order some 40k stuff and paint, want to get into miniature painting.

I just read that Citadel paints have short longevity? Like they go dry after three days? Is this right? Are Vallejo better?

Need some advice guys. Anyone got any suggestions on how to scratchbuild a round Fellblade-esque turret or know anywhere I can buy one?
Pred sized bubble turrets turned out to be super easy, but I have no idea where to start with this one

I'm a noob too so don't trust me too much, but three days would be insane. AFAIK they dry faster than some other brands, but "faster" is really relative. Months or years more like.

You'd be fine with citadel paints. Or do you mean drying on a pallet? Unless you use a wet pallet theyll dry pretty quickly then

I meant, after opening a pot from fresh?

If you don't close the cap of the paint properly, it will do this, as will pretty much any brand of paint, beause you let the lid off of it. But normally no, this will not happen.

As for paint quality, there isn't really a wide consensus. There are preofessional painters who use Vallejo, Reaper, P3, Citadel, War Color, and more. Really it has taken those people years to figure out what they *like* best. A red from vallejo, a metallic from citadel, a purple from war color. For starting out, any range of paints aimed at gaming will do you, citadel being one of them. My advice: If you can get citadel at your LGS, get citadel. If you can get vallejo, try those too. Stick with one brand for starting out, because their paints will behave consistently, which let's you focus on technique. Vallejo and Citadel paints don't quite thin the same, and trying to figure out how to thin with a bunch of different paint lines will be a bitch.

Again, unless you fail to close the lid, this shouldn't happen. Make sure you shake your paints before use, thin them down on a pallet, and always get a nice, fien tip on ya brush. So sayeth our lord, Duncan.

If you leave it open maybe otherwise no.

No in the pot they'll last much much longer than three days then, months/years.

Even years from now if your pots have dried up you could probably restore them, but not sure how that affects the its properties. That's a problem you won't have for quite a while though.

They are somewhat more prone to drying out, it's important that you make sure pots are properly closed before putting them away for storage.
Dropper bottles seal better by default, so in that sense those are superior, but GW paints don't self-destruct so quickly as to be useless.
Just don't leave them sitting open for days on end.

Admittedly eyes for me a bit of a lottery.

Thanks for the advice.
Cheers.
I may go for Vallejo as it seems cheaper to get a big paint set. Now Game or Model colour, I assume the difference is colour vibrancy?

Again, you might get a better answer from someone else, but as far as I know Game would be more vibrant and "video-gamey".
You might like those better and could use them then, since it's all about preference anyway

Model more realistic tones yeah.

>I may go for Vallejo as it seems cheaper to get a big paint set. Now Game or Model colour, I assume the difference is colour vibrancy?
Pretty much.

Model Colour is all about "realistic" tones for military modelling.
Game Colour is all about colours that pop for miniature gaming.

>shaked my shade bottle while the lid was still open

JUST

They live long. I made them work again after like 5 years of non-useage in my drawer.

But Vallejo offers a couple of advantages:
>cheaper
>bigger bottles (17ml compared to 12ml) still cheaper actually.
>dropper bottles
>proper airbrush paint is available (if you like pre-thinned paint)
>awesome metallics

Sometimes just the name is the difference. A green might be called "soviet green" in the model range and "snake scale green" in the game range. (i made these names up.. but you get the idea).

Some colors are exclusive to their specific range though. There are not so much military purples or oranges for example.

I recommend buying the "Air" version of the paint actually. It won't cost more but the paint has way smaller pigments and usually covers better compared to the non-air version (which isn't bad by any means though).

If you get metallics, defintively get the Air! These are way better than the non-air metallics.

Has anyone tried these for Space Marines, do they look right?

I think it looks off due to the left leg's position in the air. If you could alter that leg slightly it would fix it.

Never bought them myself but I heard a few guys over on the B&C say they tend to be too big.

Best way to find out would be to google for conversions using the product you are interested in I guess.

Why not send an email?

What the fuck, user?

I have no words for this. It's posted every thread, your the kind of person to pull on a push door and double down by pulling harder rather than check for a sign

How do we fa/tg/uys feel about Army Painter Quick Shades? I'm relatively new to the hobby and found I was much happier with my minis after throwing on some Nuln Oil Gloss. Looking for similar easy shading, just trying to get things tabletop quality.

Reminds me of an orangutan which looks perfect for Orks.

Thanks

Cool, cheers.

Thanks

user, the pic is in the thread.
The email in its written form is in the thread as well.

Write a mail and you will be in. Closing time is in around 2 hours.

I usually answer every question i see if they are in regards of the SS. If i missed yours, it might be because you asked while i was sleeping.

Largely depends on what army you are playing, some factions look great with quick shade, like Nurgle and Tyranid armies, others like Space marines or Tau who have less organic shapes will look rather meh.

Cheers man, i guess i had awful timing. Thank you!

Work continues on ork guntank. Side skirt look alright? Can't exactly cover tracks due to the necessity to take it apart later.

The quick shades can't be compared with regular washes.

They are a mixture between wash and varnish and actually don't alter the color of the paint whereas a brown wash (like agrax for example) would darken the color down a bit, the quickshade (if you wipe it off the high parts of the mini) will only go to the recesses.

Being half-varnish it will add a shine to your minis. This can work at some (like zombies maybe) but usually you want to spray some anti-shine/matte varnish over them.

It also has a extremely long drying time.

Here is how it works:
>paint your mini
>"dip" (its easier to actually brush it on) your mini
>let the mini rest for a little while so the quickshade starts to pool at some places like the feet etc (during that time you can "dip" a couple more minis)
>then you take a brush and some odourless thinner and use it to brush away the pooled quickshade and lightly brush over the highest points of the mini to get your original color back

Done. (or you can start highlighting at this point).

And don't forget to spray a matte varnish afterwards. (remember the long (a few days actually) drying time.

The stuff isn't bad, but it does take some more effort than you might think to make it look good.
Ofc you can go paint -> dip -> shake mini -> done but then it'll look bad.