WIP - Painting/Converting/Sculpting General

So I already posted about this in the last thread today but now I'm home and can provide a picture.
I want to use the Wrathful Crusade but don't want to spend the money on 5 Scions. Anyone think there's a fessible way to convert these guys to look like Scions without ending up like absolute shit or spending as much as a Scion dquad would cost? They are my first models and, while "nostalgia and stuff" might be an argument, they not only are ugly but also smurfs and never used.

If I were you, I wouldn't be converting my first ever models; too sentimental. I've still got my 3-colour Moria Goblins!

It works fine for GW plastic if you spray it on and let it sit for like an hour, but be warned, if you leave it on the model for too long the plastic will melt. I also have no clue how it works on resin. Not really worth it from my perspective. You might want to use something that won't damage the plastic, like Dettol or Simple Green.

Any of you Duncanbrothers tried Vallejo Metal Color? It's their newest line of acrylic airbrush metallic paints that was announced at the end of 2015 and I forgot all about them until now.

I don't hear anybody talking about them or how good they are, yet according to Vallejo these seem like the most modern upgrade of their aluminum flaked Vallejo Model Air metallics. They should be as good if not better than VMA metallics.

Maybe everyone is still just using their existing bottles of VMA so haven't had a chance to see if Vallejo Metal Color is any better? Also lol at it having the same initials as VMC which is Vallejo Model Color.

Just glue a back banner on each one to mark them as the Scion squad. I would at least rip off the heads and buy some Scion helmets from eBay, or make some out of Scouts instead but it's your army.

Reposting my WIP magnus from the last thread, any thoughts?

I've just been pretty stingy as of late and don't have a TON of emotional value attached to them being my first models (considering the ones I first painted as Black Tempalrs like 2 weeks later look way better and are actually from my own chapter) is all.

Alternatively have thought of just bidding for ebay.de/itm/112258777868?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT and either stripping and repainting them or just fixing the "blobness" they have.

Replacing their heads would be a whole different challenge since these guys are from some "learn to paint" box or something and are basically just 1 shoulder, backpack, gun and base.

>just stripped probably my second ever painted model

The dettol is dissolving my sins.

Haven't tried it.

I use this and it works great. Lifetime supply for like $8.

i dont have any updates to post but I just want to say keep working on your projects /wip/, believe in yourself, and keep improving! and be friendly to eachother.

you've got the colours down pat, i think, and a steady hand. keep it up!

looks great so far - maybe the armor decorations could use a brighter highlight on the blue?

Re-posting this question from last thread.
Need some help.I am trying to achieve the circled finished product in pic related. When the chart is asking me to layer is it asking me to paint layer 1 and 2 as highlights? Or is it asking me to paint layer 1 overall and layer 2 as highlights? If I try to paint layer 1 overall it never comes out as circled finished product, but as a much lighter outcome? Someone clear this up for me please.

You basecoat the model in Caliban green.
You wash it with nuln oil.
You do an edge highlight with warpstone glow.
You do an extreme edge highlight, picking out the sharpest corners with moot green.

That clears things up. Thanks.

I've seen that chart before and one side is drybrush and one side is layer. I forgot which side is which. The left side looks like layering since the right side is the one that uses dry paint Underhive Ash on everything.

You paint the first color, line highlight the second, then do the wash.

Where in the fuck did you find it for $8? I can't find it anywhere near me. Online has it for $30.

Caliban green basecoat
Wash Nuln Oil
Layer completely Warpstone Glow but leave Nuln Oil in recesses like Duncan shows you how
Edge highlight Moot Green

The Caliban Green is just to provide a basecoat over the primer so your Warpstone Glow doesn't take too many layers.

well, I just wasted $60 on silicon

I guess the gratuitous ammount of mold release i used wasnt enough. Or it wasnt the correct smooth-on mold release or something. Time to dig my models out of bricks of silicon

When I do that complete layer of Warpstone it is way too bright compared to what that pictures end result is supposed to look like.

I don't understand what has gone wrong, just from looking at this picture...

Sounds like the Nuln Oil is just the final layer and the last two greens are two step highlights like says then.

Walmart.

its a one piece 2-piece mold

Should i tarnish this Exarch's shield?

Not mine. Fuck.

Checked the local dollar store, home depot, target, pep boys, walmart, and ACE.

Oh, I assumed that was intentional. All is not lost! It may be a pain in the ass (and you may want to consider some serious hand protection when working on something that big) but this is a technique I've used in jewelrymaking that might work out for you...

youtube.com/watch?v=_RxELvAY-kI

I like the candy-bright thing you've got going on so far

Early stages of the Emissary, just blocking out the colours at the moment then i'll get to highlighting later.
I'm unsure about the face, I think i'm going to give it a white face/markings over the green, either that or just make it the same green as the body.

That raider looks really clean. I like where you're headed!

anyone know whether you can buy this in Australia?

Are citadel palette pads worth my dollarydoos or is there a better, cheaper solution?

I don't think so but the WD40 degreaser works really well as an alternative.
Really any strong degreaser is going to do the job.

dettol, ya cunt, if you can brave this weather for it. from what i gather dettol works better as a paint stripper than most commercially available stuff from the states.

Anyone able to help me with that, please? Picking up the box tomorrow and don't want to have to go to the store again for paints.

>its a one piece 2-piece mold

LOL. OK. Not , but I do know a thing or two about two-part molds.

Was the mold release you used for rubber? Micro-Mark specifically labels their product "Rubber to Rubber" mold release (pic related). They also sell a spray that is "Resin to Rubber" mold release. The former product is what you should be using to keep the two halves of the mold from bonding together. The latter is meant to allow you to pull your finished product from your mold without either A). tearing the mold or B). snapping a few parts off your model.

I build my mold boxes out of LEGO bricks.When the first half of the mold is ready and I remove the backing clay, but I also take the mold out of the mold box (it's easy - just take the bricks apart!). That way, I can slather the mold release on both the *top* of the mold *and* on the sides. Any errant drizzle of rubber that finds its way down from the top half of the mold will then be unable to bond to either the top *or* the sides of the bottom.

I head dettol can melt your plastic models, is it safe in your experience?

it would help if you told us what models you were intending to paint. i assume khorne ones. Personally, the only gold paint worth a damn is retributor. i fucked around with the rest of them and found them thin and glittery, but retributor armour is nice. if you dont have any other paints, you may want a black and a brown for shit like boots and leather.

you can leave standard GW plastic in dettol for weeks with no ill-effects. it will, however, damage resin models if you leave them in for more than a couple hours. the only thing that will eat through standard gw plastic is anything containing 'acetone' like nail polish remover.

I've got some models soaking in detol that I put in around the end of november, they're fine.
That does remind me that I need to get them out at some point though.

I'm gonna paint the mentioned Triumvirate of the Imperium. And I have a bunch of black, brown, grey and blue hues, just rather short stocked on metallics and reds.

Dumb question, of course they're not worth it.

51166050
>Beckenham user
>Are you missing legs to some MKIII marines?

No, I got all three sprues: legs, backpacks, and torsos. Why? Did you end up with a spare sprue?

Thanks! Being that clean means they're fucking BORING to paint, but the thrill of accomplishment, yadda yadda

oh, sorry. i would suggest getting an edge highlight for the red, maybe jokaro orange or something around that lightness.

Can anyone lower himself to give me a quick, few lines long "Wet palettes for dummies"? My old painting palette from years ago is getting crusted in paints and I need to get a new one.

dope acoustic
youtube.com/watch?v=iUjifHUCHLY

God damn that's simple.

Do they have any effect on how thin my paints are or can I just keep thinning them as usual?

>Can anyone lower himself to give me a quick, few lines long "Wet palettes for dummies"?

Even better, user. Pay attention to dis lad. He may not be Saint Duncan, but then again, GW might lean on him if he told us how to make our own wet palettes so we could get those thin coats.

youtube.com/watch?v=96mjmqWTPfM

I know this isn't really the place to ask, but since everyone is into warhammer I might as well.

Is there anywhere I can get the current Codexs either for free on .pdf or for a cheap price? I just got into the hobby/lore and I was looking at the books but I don't want to pay $40 on imperial guard book that's honestly worth like maybe $20.

Check the 40k general over yonder: Everything you'll need is in the OP.

if you intend to play in a store though you have to own the codexes, otherwise in the fine print for any models you own it actually allows the store owner to slap you around until you purchase it

Get something that will stop your table from getting wet.

Put a wet paper towel on that.

Put a sheet of waxy paper with the waxy side up on top of the paper towel.

Dr. Faust's Painting Clinic uses them and really likes them. Maybe check out some of his videos to see them in action.

The store owner can't do you shit if you use the epub files on a mobile since that'S how you get the digital editions of codices.

This is salvageable. And a learning experience.

I use a left over bathroom tile as my palette. It's not quite a wet palette but it works.

Metals flat.
Skin blending good
Loincloth good, add final highlights.
Going to look great when completed.
It's just after the other anons Magnus, you got stiff competition here dude. That bastard was beautiful

Just finished my Chaos Lord.

I like how shiny blue the claws are in contrast to the armor. Really makes them pop.

Could maybe use just a taaaad bit more edge highlighting on the skulls, they look a bit "samey" in their texture.

Having gone back to painting Gundams recently, I can assure you that getting a clean paintjob is fucking hard. I don't find it boring, I think it's actually a good accomplishment.

Just a heads up, never ever paint a Gundam unless you have an airbrush. Shit sucks to handpaint.

Thanks, i agree about the skulls, i only highlighted them a bit around the eyes and teeth because i was scared to try highlighting the round areas and making them look splotchy, but they do look a bit flat.

Here we fucking gooooooooooo
(not my pic)

Highlight skulls, horns.
Then your gold user. Be proud of your work

> when you recognize the store in the background
Hope Greg and his boy are doing OK. They are good people

A friend commissioned me to paint his Nurgle Bloodbowl team. I'm used to painting cleaner figures with much less grime to them. Does anyone have any pointers or paint scheme recommendations?

I have no idea what color to paint the team armor. I was thinking green, but I was concerned that would either be too cliche or conflict with any tentacles or pustules.

How do I put together painted sub assemblies? Duncan says to use super glue, not plastic glue. Can I glue two painted parts together or do I need to scrape off paint?
What is the best way to do this?

>Kingdom Death 40,000

Out of curiosity, how do you guys usually fill in gaps? Just green stuff and sculpting tools?

pale skin and brighter armour, maybe. you could do a greenish yellow, thats nurgly and you can get it up to some bright colouration.

Super glue works for almost every surface (including your fingers, be careful with it ). Just keep in mind that it normally doesn't flow like plastic glue so try to hide it as good as possible.

Use small amounts of super glue.

If the piece is likely to be fragile or is very heavy (to the point where the glue wouldn't hold it), then you would pin it before super gluing. There are dozens of guides online to pinning. I'm willing to bet that it won't be necessary, however.

dont paint the parts where you know you're gonna need to glue.
i you're using superglue, it only has to be a tiny surface area relative to the wight

>doc thunder mechanicus
please no

>magnet on Mechandrite Hive
For what purpose? That almost bothers me more than the boobs.

Scrape paint off the join areas, or mask them before you prime to begin with using putty. Buypainted uses plastic glue since it melts through paint but that doesn't work on resin or metal models.

Beautiful raider, user. I LOVE the sail.

Here's mine.

>tfw you're getting these for cheap on eBay to convert into Tzeentchian cultists and post in the wrong thread

Can someone explain the layering technique that Duncan uses in some of his videos a bit better to a retard like me?

It usually goes something like him painting the base color, then washing it, then going over it all with a lighter layer color while leaving the recesses dark.

I'm having a hard time making it look right, it feels like I just painted over everything with a new color and barely any of the old work shows through. Why would it be worse to just paint the lighter color straightaway, shade that, and then touch it up in places you don't want it to be so dark?

I really like them, the have a really smooth finish without any obvious "sparkle" to them, and if you use the gloss primer it can have some staggering results. that being said I don't use an airbrush but I've had good results with brush painting. I've never used the VMA line so i can't compare between the two unfortunately.

Is it save to spray at this time of year in germany? There's around 5cm snow here and temperature is like 1-6°C during the day.

Really don't want to not spray base the Triumvirate Trio, especially Cawl.

nice highlights lad

Christ are those boobs.

Temperature is irrelevant what matters is humidity. People have sprayed while standing in 3 feet of snow and it worked fine.

same thing happened to me once, cause i use a "universal mold release". i use rubber to rubber stuff now

amazon.com/Alumilite-Rubber-Mold-Release-Brush/dp/B0054N6GBK/ref=pd_lpo_201_lp_img_4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=DBQTXMX0JX37ZJ7E28HD

>want to upgrade brush
>current ones are like 2mm thick with only a few dozen hairs
> alwayas get brush envy watching Duncan paint
>barely hold paint on brush and hairs start splitting after an hour because there's not enough of them to hold the bundle together
>don't know hobby store with decent brushes
>tempted to throw out money on GW brushes next time I pick up paints at my FLGS

Send help.
Are there any brush sets or something on Amazon that can be recommended?

This is the only brush you will ever need except for drybrushing/stipling/etc.

amazon.com/Winsor-Newton-Kolinsky-Sable-Watercolor/dp/B0013E68T4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484284687&sr=8-1&keywords=windsor newton series 7 brushes

They're overrated.
Army painter synthetics are pretty good.

>wrong mold release
You NEED to use Smooth-on's (Or a GOOD) non-silicone-based mold release. I had the same problem as you and ruined a couple of molds because I bought generic mold release from Michael's.

Also, this is why you test small batches first. You can salvage it if you cut it very carefully.

Most Kolinsky sable hair brushes should do the trick. I am cheap so I use Zem ones I got on Ebay, but Raphael and Windsor Newton should give you something top notch if you want to pay a little more.

>Overrated
That's how I know you don't own one. Army Painted's Regiment brush was my workhorse for the longest time, but even then it gave in eventually. I accidentally got superglue onto the tip of my W&N brush, managed to clean it off the bristle tips and it STILL holds a fine point.