WIP thread: The last one is on autosage and I'm impatient for the new one edition!

>Live in a basement
>Dry as fuck
>Paint drys on wet pallete in under 5 minutes

Maybe it would be easier if you spray painted the bits first, then scratched paint of the joints and then glued the assemblage together?

So I have been working on this bit of the shrine of the Aquila, but I realized I've been stupid going about this. I want it to blend in towards the bottom to match the mat below it, however I'm not really sure how to go about it. I put a bunch of yellows and browns on the wall thinking that's what the building might look like if it had been exposed to dirt clumps hitting the walls + erosion. Later I looked up actual weathered buildings and they all seem to have a fairly even ware which is nothing like what I've done. I was going to put agrellan earth at the very bottom near the ground but I don't think that will look very good. Any suggestions to make this match a bit better?

Apologies in advance if I phonepost this picture sideways or if it's a thumbnail, I tried to resize on my phone.

Anyone care to rate my WIP executioner conversion? I got an old leman Russ off eBay without realising it was the old one, so I put some armour on the side of the turret and I'm working on making some plasma shit. I still need another plasma coil on the back though.

Thin the paint with drying retarder.

I would wash almost the whole wall in earth shade, but make it lighter as you go higher. I would do lots of light coats drawing it downwards. It doesn't look bad now, but that would make it more uniform.

I'm doing a bit of work on this tonight. How can I achieve a nice burn effect on the kheres assault cannon?

Good to see you making progress, night lord user.

For the gaps, you can go all in and try liquid greenstuff, but it should have been done prior to painting. I would try to use thick paint to fill the gap, but it may not look pretty. Good luck!

my first "big" model so far

Thanks user. I did use LGS prior to painting and I could have sworn that it was smooth. I think I'll just leave it be for now and do better next time.

Modeling question, does anyone know if the Farseer Skyrunner model will fit on a Reaver jet bike? If not, will a wind rider body fit?

Buy an airbrush.

That would work for priming, but spraying sealer would still be a problem

LGS shrinks a bit when it dries. Probably what happened.

So is that a single shade of yellow with white highlights? and did you paint brown or grey first like most people say to? I really wanna paint yellow because it confounded me starting out.

More terrain stuff.
Working on a factory

...

1. Spray white
2. Paint two layers of yriel yellow.
3. Recess wash with reikland fleshshade, dont get any on the flat surfaces.
4. Edge highlight dorn yellow or bleached bone.

EZ EZ EZ. I used to start with a dark primer, then averland, then layer up to this color. It was terrible and I'll never go back.

Starting to paint my Harlequins. Think it's coming together alright

I decided to start my collection over entirely. How's my color scheme? Most of what's black now will stay black; trim that's silver is going gold, fins on the backpack will be silver. Bolter I haven't figured out yet.

Working with a wet palette makes this so much easier

>How can I make the bones on his spine stand out a little more?
You could paint a bit of red shade into the seam where the bone is emerging from the skin.

Need some ideas on filling out the sides; bits, etc.

Disclaimer: I'm pisspoor with greenstuff and can barely use it to fill cracks really.

How does high humidity affect airbrushing? (if it does at all) It never drops below 80% here.

don't worry about it, faggots were whinging about my lenses one time after i literally said "the lenses need a lot of work" i think it's a meme or some shit.

it can cause paint particles to dry in mid air, giving that chalky texture you may have seen before when using GW primer.

you can counter it though by putting a small amount of paint thinner in it, which will take the paint a lot longer to dry on the model, but it wont be chalky dogshit

Why would high humidity make the paint dry faster?

ironwithinironwithout/10

Actually not Iron Warriors, but a successor. Heavily inspired, though.

So basically Iron Warriors. You're not special.

Heavily inspired in appearance, that is. Zero artillery, zero footslogging, zero siege.

I see a mold line...

Looks nice though.

>can see the primer under those spaced armor plates
>can see the brush strokes
>can see black primer showing through the puke-green camo sections
>pure steel tracks with paint on the edges
>heavy weapons team heavy bolter sticking out of the front sponson
>is that a fucking screw with a nut on it pretending to be an unpainted plasma canon?
>flag on the back has no tassel
>flag on the back still has a man's arm stick to it
god almighty, user
please tell me you just started on this poor, abused Russ

I'm looking to use Dawnstone to wash the recesses of some off-white fabric. What's a good Dawnstone to Lahmian Medium ratio to get it to wash-like consistency?

Retoasting before I fuck off to work even though all I want to do is finish this model

start with 4:1 medium/paint and see how it is

Lol Jesus Christ did not notice all this until it was pointed out. Truly the work of a butcher.

Anyone have any experience modding predator tanks? I'm thinking about putting these in for plasma cannons and I wanted to know if they look like they'll fit into the turret housing. Is there something I can use as an equivalent in size to check?

Does the blue on this gun look ok with the rest of the model?

Your lack of skill is showing

You did not answer my question.

I don't know about that one, I used the main plasma cannon from a leman russ and it fits with a little trimming into the housing from a baal predator I got cheap on ebay.

Yeah I did some research and that was my best bet but none are on sale.

...

I think it would look better if the blue went from light to dark as it went down the gun but if you like it, stick with it.

hello old friend

Holy shit why are the connections for the Tau Crisis Suit's jets so long and thin? Should have been squat and shallower. One of them already broke off and it's murder to place them properly because that one tiny fragile nub of plastic is the only guide to its proper position.

Would start gluing everything together but the fucking primer I use on my bases takes so freaking long to dry

Thanks, doc

the gif from before the internet began!

upvote

there's a proper position for those things?

I like it, you're the guy with the purple/blue eldar right? It helps fit your theme and gives a nice dark to light contrast as your eye wanders from gun, to chest and finally the green canopy.

I presume the dark brown areas will go to the same brass as the spine and stuff? If so you can probably turn the blue up a little more on the edges.

Just try and continue the lines from the neck up to the skull, the greenstuff should blend with the neck but probably not the skull.

I think you should reconsider the position of the head before you go further though. Look at some pictures of hyenas perhaps, they have the most similar body structure in real life, their necks attach to the back of their skull rather than the bottom.

you mean did I not notice it until I pointed it out to myself? Or "did I not notice it was WIP"? Because I don't know what the fuck user has done to the thing, the only context is that one image.

I don't dig it. I would have rathered a red or something like that. Like a dark mahogany with highlights of a sharp, vivid red along the lines of Blood Red. But if you are onboard with it, go for it, dude.

Yeah, I intend to make the brown brass. The brown is just an undercoat so I don't have to do multiple layers of brass on black.

The gun is blue mostly because these guys have blue guns.

I guess it's just something about the titan's gun that rubs me the wrong way. Those look fine. Maybe once you've worked on it more my tune will change.

Well, the gun isn't yet finished, so we'll see.

Fucking hell.

I'm about to do pretty much the same thing for my TS Forgefiend and also with Necrosphinx parts. Got both kits at home in my to-do pile right now.

Pic of your dry pallete.

>inb4 it's the basement ogre from /tv/

Nice work user, although i would say that the horns could be more brown towards the bottom this being a nurgle demon and all.

Thanks doc.

It WILL confound you.
Especially if you want a dark, almost orange tone like I did.

The other guy is right about Dorn Yellow being a great highlight colour though.
And Lamenter's Glaze is great for brightening up the colour and making highlights less extreme.

Liquid green stuff a shit
A SHIT!

What exactly are you doing here user? you're covering the robes with liquid greenstuff AFTER you've already primed the mini?

Looks like you can just sand it down?

No, the green im using is similar.
I did cover the gap using liquid stuff and it did seem smooth and even when i primed black. I guess i'll have to sand it down, apply proper green stuff and repaint, so doble work.

Always use normal greenstuff.
With liquid greenstuff if you want to fill gaps you have to do at least 2, if not 3 passes because it shinks when it dries.

Ohh, i see.

MULTIPLE

SUCCESSIVE

THIN

COATS

Roses are red,
Violets are blue,
Multiple thin coats,
Thats what will do

Happy Valentines /wip/

Also, drill your barrels.

Let Based Duncan show you the way.

youtube.com/watch?v=jIKEfVoqC5U

After feedback on the mould lines here is an update AND some chosen models painted. Please advice with some tips. Not keen on spending too much more time on them.

>use Corax White for first time
>try to spray in box to "catch excess paint"
>fucking paint reflects right back at me
>blue-tac I used to fix my stuff onto bottle cap stopped sticking after 4 modles because it was too cold

God dammit, when is summer coming?

i'd say you should give them another highlight, they don't really pop, they're very muted so if that's the feel you're going for you could leave it like that.

How do I do white vehicles without an airbrush?

I'm confident in getting even and neatly thin white coat on normal miniatures and robes and stuff like that, but something with as much surface as a Rhino or similar things scares the fuck out of me.

To add on topic of "which paint": can I stick with my usual Rakarth Flesh -> Palid Wych Flesh like I do on robes?

>How do I do white vehicles without an airbrush?
With EXTREME care.

BY sheer force of anger.

>not using zap-a-gap and a file to smooth out gaps before final assembly

ROI and UK anons, where do you get the studs or beads to drill into armour?

Stirland Greatsword, what do you lads think?

Well gee, thanks.

...

Green on green with beige isn't a good colour scheme, it doesn't pop it just sort of exists. Add some contrasting colours to it.

So I split spire of dawn for the rats but my friend didn't want the guy on gryphon for the elves.

Any ideas on converting it for 40k or something else, I'm already cutting the guy off so it'll be riderless for the time being

youtube.com/watch?v=kKF6GUyI8VA

How is he so perfect?

Can usually convert most things fantasy into some sort of Chaos Lord riding some demon.

anyone know where I can find "How to paint stormcast eternals" ?

10/10 would kill foul beastmen with

The right combination of earnest but droll.
Captures some of the early era spirit.