WIP - Work in Progress General

Kek I wouldn't even know where to begin with something like that. These guys arrived a lot quicker than I anticipated! Guy flat packed a few boxes to reduce shipping. Turns out the scouts box was empty barring some left overs pieces (heads, guns, a few legs). Doesn't really bother me because I really only wanted the snipers for my Gunners of Nuln warband I'm putting together. All in all I'm not complaining. Everything else is either sealed or complete. May even save the Basilisk to use at Christmas for secret Santa. Not bad for $20 dollarydoos
I knew someone would pick up on that.

m-k-painting-studio.blogspot.no/2015/12/ultramarines-painting-guide.html

this blog is deleted, anyone know how i can see this tutorial anyway?

You've probably gone to bed now lad but in case you're still up have these. I certainly wouldn't want to assemble a miniature like that without instructions.

I had to chuck it in an imgur album because it's 7 pages long, sorry if it's a little blurry as I've only just woken up myself.

imgur.com/a/npTPZ

What's my best course of action if I want a few small bits from a large kit? Hit up someone here who'd be willing to part with the pieces for a price?

waybackmachine doesn't work for blogspot, so not sure it's possible

there are many "bitz" sellers online, also on eBay.

I am aware, but not a single one stock what I want, which is unfortunate. I'm looking for the two characters that ride on top of the Nurgle daemon, kit's called the Glottkin.

Plastic Scouts and Cadians are among the worst plastics in the entire model line due to how old and outdated the sculpts are.

Not exactly much to be proud of. I hope you paid well under retail for them.

Depends on the bits and the kit they're from.
You're rather fucked out of luck.
However you should be able to easily convert the fatto from other nurgle WoC, he's not all that special.

Due to highlighting roadblocks and the realization that all my small brushes had their poor bristles torn out by a misuse of a collandered water container, I decided to make headway on my base this evening instead. Looking forward to getting new brushes and maybe some hands on help tomorrow.

Built a Prosecutor Squad to go with the Oblivion Knight Centura. Gotta clean them and drill the barrels. After that is the Vigilator Squad.

youtube.com/watch?v=pm3_9pXRrig

Has Veeky Forums met the spooky skeletal terrain god yet?

I support him on patreon, his playlists are top-tier comfy to listen to while working on something and he seems like a genuinely nice bloke. I wish he'd go to a presenting course or something so he'd stop saying 'yeh' every 5 seconds though.

Painted up test models for my Iron Warriors and Undead armies.

The paint is quite thick on parts of the ghoul and skellington as they've been repainted a few times before I found any colors I liked.

Great work, well done!

I'm trying to use contrast colours form colourwheel to mish-mash them even more, but I see that I can't make everything with washes. Fur on back looks retarded at some of them.

I like your idea. Tzeentch is supposed to be about variety, I don't get the blue meme.

Oo I like the l the faint rustiness you achieved on the iron warrior. Your stripes are nice too.

Mighty mutatin' tzaango-rangers!

If you are gonna have big mobs of them I could see the bright different colors coming in handy for differentiating units.

>Buy incredibly detailed fancy miniature
>Paint him like that
Come on user you can do better than that. Those hi-lights are way too thick on his head and it looks like you haven't done a wash in the recesses of his body armour. Take your time I know you can do better

this is as far as i get
webcache.googleusercontent.com/search?q=cache:2DLdsEmQi6oJ:m-k-painting-studio.blogspot.fi/?view=sidebar &cd=3&hl=no&ct=clnk&gl=no

Oh, don't worry. Im not nearly done yet. I'm back to work on the hard stuff tomorrow. I'm really enjoying pushing myself so far, this has been way outside my comfort level. I started on highlighting today but started to screw things up so I'm give it a fresh shot tomorrow.

I am in the process of taking pictures of nearly a hundred Descent v2 miniatures before the customer come take them to their sweet home tmr morning.

This must seem like a basic question but:
What is the real difference in Sepia, Agrax and Reikland shades?

I still see too many guides for things like bones/horns using them interchangably.

Sepia is a dull orangish-brown.
Agrax is a very dark brown, more of a mud color.
Reikland is a very fleshy red.

They're all different hues, is the big thing. You can use all of them on bones/horns if you want to, but it'll produce slightly different effects. Reikland should be used if you want a warmer colour, Agrax for old bones and Sepia for everything else.

It's really a matter of what fits the rest of the pallette. I know using Reikland for bons on models that are suppsoed to be old and battered doesn't look quite right.

Thanks for the reply.
I've also heard people uning Nuln to achieve more of a "gothic" look since the other 3 are very warm washes

That accurate? I'm using a ratio of 2:1 of Zombies/Skeletons in my unit comp, because not all flesh rots equally, and trying to get them looking "similar"

Nice job so far man! I dig the sword, should be a pretty rad paint job once finished!
you try painting like that with a base brush m8

Nuln would give a very desaturated look, which I guess does fit the gothic style.

If you want them to look similar, then I would suggest sticking to the same shade for all the bones regardless of what would actually make sense. A coherent army is better looking than a realistic one.

As an aside, shade dead flesh with purple. Gives it enough red to look like human flesh but keeps it cool enough to be an obvious "This thing is dead".

I never thought of using Purple washeson flesh
Thanks so much user - will post when painting the unit

>theres no such thing as a lost cause in a hobby like painting

Oh we have some, though they are of the "Well *I* thing it's a good colour scheme" variety.

So minor update on 30k Kharn kitbash, here's some options for shoulderpads and an alternate arm I'm seriously considering after finding it. I'm putting the fw mkIII pad on the pistol arm, it's the only mkIII pad I have free at the moment. Should I go for a pair of mkIII, go for the slimmer mkIV, the marauder one, or just go bare? And pistol arms, after throwing on the new one, I have a pretty good idea of which one looks cooler, just gonna have to fix the armor where I cut the previous hand off the B arm but still looking for suggestions. Also more head ideas are welcome, anywhere from looking like the official fw to 3rd party or kitbashes.

I'd say 1 B
2 B it the helmet and shoulder won't collide

Painting a Nob conversion for a friend of mine who plays Orks (the absolute madman!), am a bit concerned about how he's coming out. He's themed after Russian airborne troops, if anyone's interested.

Looks solid, needs a cigar though.

1B as well.
I would have gone for 2B but as the other user said, the pauldron will be a problem for the helmet.

Pretty good so far.

...

So what did Citadel mean by this anyways?

So I angled down the mkIII shoulderpad since the pose would have it like he is tilting the shoulder at an odd angle and it is the cooler of the three pads. Here's a rough idea of what I'm thinking.

the moot is the place where the halflings live in WHFB.
That was probably a thing before Veeky Forums ever was.

Can anyone up Tyranid painting guides? There are none except the Broodlord in the Mediafire folder.

Supported him before he was big but now I can't stand his shit. He's very unprofessional and keeps shoving his kids into videos.

VDV! Looking good so far.

What isit with Veeky Forums and dragon dildos? Is it something dating back to ye olde days of /b/ where someone got a truckload of dragon dildos after putting his adress up?

Hey fellas how do I get my decals to lay flatter and look better?

1. Put them down on a gloss surface
2. Use decal setter & solvent (micro-sol & micro-set are probably the most popular, plenty of other brands)

It's a /v/ thing from back when Skyrim came out.

use something like lahmian medium

personally, when i put big deals on rounded surfaces like a knight shoulder, i cut little slits to help let it fold naturally with curve. Not big slits nor all the way through.

For making them look better Listen to this user

I believe /k/ used them as currency before then.

So next time paint model, gloss coat decal areas; decal, Mr mark setter,then clear coat again

Yeah, if you were going to do some heavy weathering, I'd clear coat everything after the decals; if not, just go on to your top coat.

Man this kit has been a challenge. Mold lines and fragile as fuck parts were a headache. While I dig it overall, if I played at all, and played Vampire Lords and had to build multiple of these fuckers, I think I'd choose a different army.

I'm undecided if I'm going to put the Ghoul King or whatever on top. I kinda wouldn't mind using his head and arms for some 40k stuff and feel like the Terrorgheist looks fine without him. I'm gonna end up putting on a lot of gaps and am going to use some for a "flesh hanging" look on some spots.

What should I do with the Zombie Dragon parts?

Build them into something, turn them into objectives or as decoration for your bases

>if I played at all, and played Vampire Lords and had to build multiple of these fuckers, I think I'd choose a different army.
If you played at all you could just opt to use a model you like more.

Just finished Alberich Haupt-Anderssen on foot, I hope to finish his mounted version tomorrow

Where are those legs from?

>objectives
Man that's a neat idea but I don't play. I may use half of the dragon skull for the Terrorgheist's base.
True. I mean, I like it. It was just an undertaking for me. Two weeks to build that much, since I don't get much time to.

The transition from yellow to red on the tips of the flames needs work, at the moment it doesn't look very natural, feather the red more so it's not just a solid line

It's not going to win medals but it's alright, keep at it man.

What's that melee arm from? Awesome job too man.

I asked this in the last thread, but I'll ask again here, does anyone have rhe assembly instructions for the Yncarne? All these fiddly bits and no clear direction is driving me nuts.

Been working on a "Ork" warband for Shadow War: Armageddon inspired by the Diggas of old. Waiting on a load of plasticard and other hobby supplies arrive before I can actually finish them but the base models are done at least.

I also need to make the Boss for the team, but I'm still debating whether I use a Slaughterpreast or a Blood Reaver. Either way he needs to be a big guy.

Pic 1/2

Pic 2/2

>does anyone have rhe assembly instructions for the Yncarne?

Pay attention, dude. Some uvva generous user posted them in .

Neat! Chaos marauders with catachan heads?

Here's an update on the ranger I'm painting for a D&D campaign. Ignore the hair -- I was testing out a color, and I didn't like it; I'm going to go with a much darker brown, probably VMC camo black brown.

And what is a good way to paint strongly tanned skin? I feel like all of the "skin tone" paints I have are either too pink or too light.

So I nabbed a couple of Ebin Silver Towers, figured I'd use them for a Dark Mechanicum setpiece as a holopic of the real thing. Any suggestions for painting a holographic projection? I'm thinking orange with washes and yellow/white highlights, not too bright. What say ye?

Does anyone know the color market shares for Citadel, Vallejo and Army Painter?

youve had four months /wip/ hows it coming

Diggas were skinny mother fuckers not hulking beastmen.

Best bet is to make it look like a grid/ mesh. Gonna be hard to do convincigly with a sculp that old and uneven.

>؜>52631827

You need to thin your paints

Good lors user, I don't need that additional pressure. I already don't feel very proud of having painted something like less than 30 models in 6 months.

And you need to go back

Never

Should I try thinning my off-white/greys, Celestra and Ulthuan Grey, with Lahmian medium instead of water?
No matter how thin I try to get my coats, it always end up a tacky white.

White vinegar in the soaking water will soften them up, it's what's IN decal softener.

If I link to a Mega folder is there any way for people to fuck with it or track who runs it? I have some.. stuff you guys might like.

A few weeks ago, an user posted a pic of a 40k CSM with a Fantasy shield and a melee weapon. user, are you here? You had the shield in a position I liked and would love to see the other side of it to see how you achieved that.

Your shipment of dragon dildos?

There is a company called bad dragon and it is funny to make jokes about people buying dragon dildos. It is like the whole "op is a faggot" thing.

Figure painter magazine issues 1-36. Best miniature painting magazine out there full of tutorials, product reviews and show reports. It's like old white dwarf without the battle reports. Check it out and if you like it pick up some of the new issues since they're really cheap at $2 a pop.

Include this in Op if you want. Might improve some of the painting skills around here.

mega.nz/#F!0AIGDAxL!xOT6MK3oiGpBB1pQaNy5lg

Neat. I've seen GD winners participate in this magazine I think, at least saying so on their IG.
Thanks user.

Thanks, that's right! They have some Catachan arms mixed in too for the guns.

They are a tad bulkier than I would of liked, but I had to stick with GW pieces if I wanted to play with them in stores. Plus it's what I had lying around. Although then again they look pretty damn beefy on the cover of Digganob.

What do you guys think of this testpainting for my pink horror squad?

I tried to make it look like muscles without skin over it, kinda like those muscle diagrams you see in biology books, do you think i have achieved something like this or is it shit for the bin?

>Although then again they look pretty damn beefy on the cover of Digganob.
The spirit of the 80s was still alive and kicking then.

Anyway you could look into ungor, flagellant, ghoul or zombie parts too.

The best fit would probably be a bunch of universal bare rifle arms from victoria, but if you want to stick with purely GW you'll have a hard time finding bare arms that hold a two handed ballistic weapons.

It's by far the highest standard I've ever seen in print and often with tutorials telling you how to do it.

Hope you enjoy.

>do you think i have achieved something like this
not really, it just looks like regular highlighting to me

I have to take a second look at the Marauders sprue; put some mohawks on those lads and you have some reasonable Goliaths from Necromunda

youtube.com/watch?v=X9du3Mkw46Y