WIP thread

>Would it be possible to kitbash one into existance?
Yes of course. The original model was built by someone in the first place too after all.
On a slightly more helpful note though scratchbuilding the plow with plastic card should be doable for anyone able to make a straight cut.

If you got the connection you could order chinacasts though.

>Seriously, if I thin my paint any farther than I already have it, it turns to water with a slight tint and is useless. If I leave it as it is, one coat is as thick as "two thin coats"

I have this problem too. I have never felt like I achieved the proper consistency, I just settle for too thick because the alternative is paint running everywhere.

>If you got the connection you could order chinacasts though.

Where would I do that?

Last I heard, r/yoyhammer then look around for Z.

Thanks

Got a metric fuckton of projects from the last few weeks to post, so lets get started.

Reposting my Plague Hulk from last thread. I'm concerned that he might actually be a bit too colourful for the grimperpyness of the 41st millenium.

VDV nob user here. Based and varnished this fella just now. How's he?

Tried to click the link for stripping paint, but it was dead.

>found a really latge, comprehensive skaven army for sale.
>some decent conversions and models
>about 300+ models in it
>the catch: it looks like it was painted by a child

Aside from it looking like it was touched up with crayons, it's a good deal. What I need now is a decent way to quickly remove the paint. Best methods?

...

The we got these 'zerkers here, baselayers_and_washes.jpg. Wont get around to finish them any time soon, which is a shame.

Chinacasts of these are known to exist, just fyi.

Some one always brings this up and it's even mentioned in the OP post.
You need to paste the dots in the url with the rest of it. the link works fine.

Seriously, unless it's a tentacle monster, matte spray is the way to go.

If it's acrylics, dip the models in alcohol. Helps like nothing else.

It's the flash that caused this look. It's night here now, so there was no option but to use it.

Also got these noise marines lying around from last year. Mostly disappointed with the way i handled the highlights on these fuckers, so i dropped them until now.

Pretty damn shiny, the skin looks a bit dull. Good highlights, is that grass on his base growing on rusted metal?

Looks decent save for the oversized arms on 2 and 6. I get that it's Chaos, but that's insane. Also the horns and skin kinda blend together.

Nay, the grass is growing from a gap between the plates.

If you're in the UK, I heard from several people here that pic related was fantastic.

Should change the helper then, "paste the link, don't click it" makes more sense to the rest of the world who calls "ellipses" periods.

And then there's this guy. Champion to a termicide squad i'm going to field next week. Still got two of his buddies and a sorc in the pipe. Not all that sold on him, but it was a quick build & paintjob.

>that's insane
Isn't that the whole point? I only do the oversized limbs for khorne, that's kinda his thing.
>the horns and skin kinda blend together
Absolutely true. I'll go ahead and blame it on the lack of proper highlights, might also need to add some strong tone to the horns later.

I like it

The most effective and least harmful paint stripper I've used is Simple Green. I know it's an american product, but I've heard the same formula is being sold in some countries in europe in art supply stores. Either way, a plastic container, drop your minis in there, cover them with the fluid and let soak for a day or two. Then gently brush off the paint with a tooth brush. Then wash the mini in warm water with a drop of dishwasher liquid and finally just rinse it in clean water. Depending on what colours have been used you might want to go over it with a toothpick and gently scrape any stubborn paint out of the tiniest crevices.

Simple green and similar formulas are also very kind to your senses and you can work with it without using gloves. You can also read bus time tables afterwards without trouble, unlike with alcoholic substances.

Lye heavy wood soap, soak in a bag with air squeezed out, after a day most paint will just slough off.

Are these Doom guy?

Not to sound rude, but if you had read it at all you surely would have been able to figure that out, no?
The part in parenthesis was probably added by a non native speaker.

Captain Renatus, my first large scale limb-hacking of a Warzone plastic Imperial. This plastic is hard, so I had to use a saw to cut off his left arm. The replacement arm is a combo of a Tempestus Scion shoulder pad and the Cadian bionic power-sword arm. Green stuff covers up where I hacked up the shoulder pads.

Renatus from the front (and sans backpack). Do you think that the bionic arm is too pushed out from the body?
Also, I'm concerned that the original, flat shoulder pad looks awkward on top of the bionic shoulder.
Do you think that the two shoulder pads look goofy?

either way, the new shoulder needs to be higher

That's a good suggestion, I'll see what I can do to move it up.
Thanks!

I'd remove the flat upper pad. It looks awkward with both. I also agree with this guyMove the arm up after you take the old pad off.

Anyone know what the active ingredient(s) are in this? Was going to poke around for a stateside equivalent.

More importantly, what's the active ingredient?

Does it need to be concentrate? I have Simple Green lying around for household use, but it's just the spray bottle stuff.

Also, if I cover the container (closed tupperware, in other words) will it be an issue?

I left some nids in a container of Simple Green closed and sealed for 2+ years. Paint came off effortlessly and they were still in good condition.

You will need the Concentrate.

Well, that's a pain. Guess I'll be going to Lowes sooner than I planned on.

Hmm. Found a forum post claiming the active ingredient in Wilko is benzyl alcohol... poking around Home Depot's website for something compatible.

Comrade where did fur hat of coming from?

Is of glorious Pig Iron, tovarich

I've finished the first half. R8
They're pig iron heads, they're fantastic. I bought 40 but I might buy more along with some helmeted heads

Fucking hell from the thumbnail I though it was a white girl with skinny legs wearing a green short dress that ends in little pleats taking a photo of her thighs

They plastic cadians match pretty nicely to the metal valhallan, slightly taller and look less warm, but I guess since they're conscripts they have shit gear.
I don't see it

I've probably just spent too much time on /s/

>second from the right
HE'S BACK

He never left you
He's always here, in this thread
Watching, waiting, telling you to thin your paints

Why do people think their shitty conversions/painting are worth this much? Like how do you even think that one model is this valuable?

thats probably a meme listing.

Depends upon what materials we're talking about. Plastic or resin, I use pic related. You can get this jug down at the local dollar store, as well as a cheap plastic tub to toss it all in to.

If you've got metal duders, I'd say straight acetone. You can get a decent container for a couple of bucks down at Walmart in the beauty and nail section, but you're gonna want a metal container for it, because you'll fuckin' NUKE any sort of plastic. Resin doesn't really fare well either, which is why I'd only recommend it for metal minis. Shit works like a dream, though.

>obtain painted Skaven unit from dad's shop
>strip em
>discover mold lines on literally every model
Why.

For my Terrorgheist, I'm gonna have him holding a beheaded Skaven troop. However, I'm unsure what to do with the rat's hands with daggers. Do I allow them to remain in a defensive position, implying he fought to the very last or would the Terrorgheist be smart enough to remove tbe daggers? Any ideas?

Christ, that looks horrible and I'm a novice that couldn't do any better yet.

First attempt at doing flesh differently than gw tutorials. I was going for a more "realistic" leathery flesh look. What do you think? Also incoming is pic of Arch Warlock for CnC

...

Calling him pretty much done, still need to touch up a few areas and add some nikalakh oxide (don't have the paint) and seal him up but I'm pretty happy with how he came out. Was going for a very cobbled together look

That's quite nice, I like it.

My back is now tingling from staring at that scarification.

So good job I think.

Thanks user!

That's what I was going for! I want you to feel genuinely bad for these hulking monstrosities . Thank you!

And the second baddie, trying to go for a more lively bruised look on him. The picture is making him quite a bit brighter than I he is IRL bit I think it came out nice and horrible.

1/2

2/2

Does this shit sell at all? Because I'm actually pretty fair with conversions. But if I can shit something dumb out with no effort and make money, I'd do it.

Honestly selling things as "pro painted" is much better. Guy at my lgs regularly buys and paints armies only to sell them on ebay for 50% profit. The paintjob is decent quality sure, but nothing to write home about. Usually just 3 colors, wash and highlight

His secret is his GF is a professional photographer

Inspiration for a Dark Mechanicus army

Fuck this.
mega.nz/#F!hEUhGZAD!Mqx_Xc2wNqdnLwVMMvijxg

Really tempted to get some stuff for 30k, or Kriegers. Even more so no that Z has switched to plastic and not resin.

Most of his stuff is still resin, but if you look around yoyhammer and figure out what he's doing in plastic, those recasts can be fucking amazing quality.

Yeah, as I was typing I realised it's probably only his lost recent casts that are in plastic.
Or can he turn his whole range into plastic, given enough time? Plastic Kriegers would sell like there's no tomorrow.

Tell him this! Seriously, I'll buy a whole 2000pt army of plastic kriegers

I thought casting in plastic was a huge pain in the dick. How is he managing it?

Night Lord user here with progress.

I'm not too thrilled about the lightning, but the humidity fucky right now. I couldn't keep a good tip.

Another pic that isn't so grainy.

I've never done piece mail before. Do I need tondo anything before gluing on shoulders/head?

Fuck everything.

Fuck if I know. But just judging by how much money my local gaming group alone is shoving down his throat, I'm guessing that he's got the means to do whatever the fuck he wants, given that he's located in China.

Yeah, wouldn't be surprised if our little chinese worker managed to step up his game. He's moving up in th world. If he starts churning out plastic casts of resin stuff, he'll have a legit flourishing business. Hell, I'd make the jump too. Plasic over resin any day.

the armor on his wrist isnt suppost to go like that man, its meant to flush down also staff is bent to shite but i guess its skaven so thats fine

Move past and heal mister skeltel

What kit is that from, exactly? I'd like to use that blade arm for soms kitbashing.

Lovely job.

jesus, what IS it?

Not him, but I got mine from the Island of Blood set

Nice. If you're really going for realistic flesh, try dabbing in a bit (less than a part) of medium green into your base tones. The GW flesh colors have always looked like they're a straight mix of red and some sort of yellow, real flesh tones have a tiny bit of green.

Everything he produces is still resin. Some of his newer stuff looks like plastic though. Please for the love of everything wear a mask when working with chinacast.

Nobody said the opposite. We were just wondering
A) How he casts in plastic?
B) If he could cast older, non plastic stuff in plastic, which would negate the disadvantages of resin

Thanks.

Dude.
If this (head and cowl) is resin then it's not like any resin I've ever worked with. No flash, no bubbles, no release agent, no 'resin smell', NOTHING.

>Please for the love of everything wear a mask when working with chinacast.
Always.

That sure as hell doesn't look like resin; maybe the dude's just really on top of his vacuum degassing game.

Oh hey, I remember you posting an unassembled progess pic of this thing. You finish painting it yet?

>You finish painting it yet?

Sure did

Do you guys like my skitarii ally/sneaky gsc chimera?

Different angle

Could use a drop of nuln around all of those rivets.

Last week I used simple green to strip a necron army off of ebay. Poured a gallon in a 5 gal Home Depot bucket with my crons and left them for 2 or 3 days, paint came of very nicely.

Damn awesome, my dude.

One more, close up on turret.