I wanted to make a thread fast so I could talk about how my fingers hurt
Hudson Thompson
kek
reposting from last thread. Finished him. Nothing amazing but I'm happy considering my current skills.
Landon Evans
Help, I am trying to kitbash/sculpt a western steampunk-esque saloon girl. I have no clue what to do for the base. Thoughts?
Jace Butler
look at mali-fox
Carson Powell
Hardwood floor, optional spittoon
David Nelson
Depends on what scale you're working in.
Heroic, 30mm, etc
Assuming you mean base as basis for the conversion, and now how to design the base under the model.
Daniel Russell
No, base underneath the model. I need to make the base before I can model the legs, which involve a skirt. Thanks.
Anthony Rogers
I want to buy an FA Girl but I don't know which one to buy.
Jacob Ward
What kind of colors would I want to use in order to recreate this "green" on the leftmost model? Ogryn Camo with a dab of Agrax Earthshade? Ushabti Bone with a wash of heavily diluted Athonian Camoshade?
Levi Ross
For a second I though user was color-blind because that green is so subtle.
Honestly you'd be better basing with something like Zandri Dust or Rakarth Flesh and then layer with really light tans. Then shade with Beil-Tan green or Athonian Camoshade to give that hint of green. I don't think Citadel makes green that tan and light.
Adam Morris
still working on the weeaborks
made a blade out of card and posed some arms so I can have a boy holding a katana with two hands
now I got two hurdles to overcome;
chopping away enough of the harness from the big shoota to add a shoulder pad
and seeing if it's even possible to pose the ork arm in a "about to unsheathe kataner" pose, with the katana sheath being on the belt
Charles Bell
Khaki of some sorts. Maybe add in a smidge of olive drab if you want it greener.
Juan Watson
I just cannot get this lava looking right and I cant pinpoint what I'm doing wrong
Any tips to paint it correctly?
Xavier Butler
Too much even distribution of fire colors and black. Have the fire colors take the form of cracked lines between the black.
Looks fun! Try adding some more texture to the armor and hats so you have something to shade and highlight. Make the texture of, say, straw.
Levi Barnes
Finished Celestine and her bodyguards. Thoughts? Really happy with how the golds turned out. Did Retributor Gold with flesh shade then violet. Then highlighted with Liberator Gold.
David Hughes
Can anyone help with some recipes? Never painted green or orange before, but I want to pattern my Mechanicum off this pic, with washed-out and grimy green robes and orange glowy bitz and vials and lenses and stuff. Can anyone think of a good combo for the green with Citadel paints?
Grayson Hernandez
If you want a straight up recipe:
Robes: Base with Death World Forest, shade with Agrax or Athonian Camoshade, layer Elysian Green, highlight Ogryn Camo.
Lights: Base Jokaero Orange. Highlight Troll Slayer Orange. Fine highlight Yriel Yellow.
Adrian Bailey
Much obliged. I'm decent at coming up with conversions but useless at figuring out how to paint them.
Ryan Ramirez
Finished with the prototype marine, time to prepare for an entire army.
Jaxson Martinez
Great job on the shoulder. Did you freehand that symbol?? Chapter?
Like the green-white-blue. Looks very noble. You also did clean highlights. Not sure why the one hand is blue, but whatevs.
Put up a piece of paper for background and take some more close-up pictures, if you can. I'd like to see the details on this guy.
Benjamin Jackson
Working on a Stormcast Eternals Ghost theme. Here's my first test model. Process went White Prime-->Light Blue Edging on Pauldrons, Hammer, and Back Spikes-->Blue Wash
What can I do to make it better? Should I do a white drybrush? Thanks!
Carter Foster
Close-up shots pls
Why are they ghosts?
Joseph Bell
Found a really old WIP-pic from... about a decade ago. Posting just to prove that Lilac is a manly colour and that there is indeed a use for metallic orange paint.
Gavin Adams
That is truly something
Isaac Sullivan
My own chapter, Scions of Calth. They're a second founding Ultramarines successor chapter created with veterans from Calth. Therefore the chapter has a hatred of Word Bearers an a marine that slays one gains the right to paint the right fist blue.
Everything is freehand except for the roman numerals. The chapter symbol represents the Ultramarines and Calth system (five planets, hard to know) burning due to the Word bearers fucking with the sun.
I can't take any better photos due to my shitty Iphone so a lightbox and a proper camera are on my list for the future.
Luis King
Add a bit more green, maybe? Do a light wash of Nihilakh Oxide, that always is great for ghost effects.
You could go in with some dark shade and fill in the eyes to make them stand out more against the glow - look spooky and hollow. Or use a bone white to color the face, hands, and maybe some subtle designs on the limbs as if to imply there's a skeleton leering our from the ghost's fog.
If you wanna get really fancy with it, you could go in with a highlight color and add some swirly fog designs on the boring, flat panels like the pauldrons or shins.
Or maybe do some highlights across the knuckles, as if to imply you can see the handle of the weapon through his ghost hands. Or do something similar around where the chestplate meets the pauldrons.
Blake Rogers
Currently looks more like marble than a ghost. I recommend dry brushing the flat panels with a very light blue, and then a light drybrush of near-white on the edges.
Adam Gutierrez
He's looking good, really like that cultist model
I'm really looking forward to seeing these guys done, have you settled on a base yet?
I just finished a guy for my kill team, he's pretty brown
Nathan Fisher
By smoothing out the colors you can achieve an effect like this, which may be in line with what you want.
Nathaniel Hernandez
Anyone have any ideas for making a Raven Guard color scheme more interesting?
I was thinking of doing black metal for the trim, with some silver highlights, just to make it more interesting than matte black.
And maybe a more off-white for the white? Like ghost white, or bone white?
And maybe if I could be assed, some freehand designs. What designs would look very Ravens? Are they like Native American, or Celtic, or what?
Jackson Hernandez
Nice paintjob and lore. That's one of the first custom chapter backgrounds I've read that hasn't been really fucking cringy, so that's actually great.
Leo Garcia
Thanks for the tips everyone. I should clarify what I'm looking for since "Ghost" is pretty vague. The fluff behind Reforging suggests that it's not fully understood by the Stormcast, also mentioning that with each reforging their personalities change or even become less present. My chamber would be named "Sigmar's Forgotten". The idea is that when they died they turned into lighting to be reforged, like most Stormcast do, however, they never got to be reforged, and so they're just beings of pure lightning, fighting in Sigmar's name even though they lack a corporeal form.
Elijah Turner
I actually really like those, would the best way to do it be a light blue base with a darker wash, and then highlighting again after the wash?
Hudson Morris
You may be more interested in Dark Angels pre-heresy/fallen colors, and/or Ravenwing. Unless you're totally sold on Raven Guard.
Lucas Diaz
Well in that case do the reverse. Base with your brightest colors and work your way outwards to the darkest colors, so it looks like the light in coming from within, and make sure your color transitions are smooth. (Use dry brush, multiple thin layers, or airbrush)
Then go and draw some jagged lightning effects on all the flat surface, a la Night Lords.
Alexander Ward
A dark wash followed by increasingly lighter colors and lighter layers of drybrushing should give you that sort of gradient.
Andrew Wilson
>How do I paint good looking Raven Guard? >Paint Dark Angels
Thanks, user.
Ethan Turner
>I'm really looking forward to seeing these guys done, have you settled on a base yet?
At least one will have a trampled sand garden
the rest will have some futuristic city/industrial bases but that depends on what kind of stuff I can find around my place and what tutorials I can find
also gonna have to find something else to use for the flags since I originally wanted to use the plastic tube thingies inside pens but they're a bit too thick
Samuel Jackson
Good advice. As a rule of thumb, painting something "translucent" build from dark recesses to light edges. Painting something "glowing" build from light recesses to dark edges.
Colton Perry
Just sayin that you'll get a better selection of models, with much of the same aesthetics (including the Native American shtick) and a more variable color scheme.
Camden Murphy
Working on a deatheing terminator
Thoughts?
Benjamin Gonzalez
How's the weather in Australia?
Adam Thomas
But the point is I want to play Raven Guard, I'm just trying to liven up the color scheme.
Alexander Brooks
Every fucking time
Elijah Mitchell
Ah, they're fighting in the outback, I see!
Idk, they look clean and well done, though I can't get the best read without turning my monitor upside-down.
Lucas Price
Looks good! Do some more prominent highlights and more recess shade around places like the face to make them pop more.
Also drill the barrels of your storm bolters.
Grayson Lewis
Highlight your edges, sort out your mold lines and drill your barrels
Luis Reed
Fair enough, just giving my first recommendation.
Maybe go for a glossy black/white, to give it an enamel look? Frankly I think you just picked an aesthetically pretty flat chapter. They don't even have special company markings you can incorporate.
Henry Hill
Finally put more time into my lone fiend. Thoughts on the base?
Leo Anderson
Looks really cool, specially the skin. I would add something in the base in the same color of the bone parts to bring the actual model and the base together. Meaby a light yellow turf or a skull can do the trick.
Noah Cruz
Oh gosh. It's beautiful, user. The whole thing is, and it's making me want to start collecting deldar, but I quite like the base as well. How did you base it?
Oh didn't see this one, sorry. Moar skulls I guess
Julian Sullivan
yeah those flakes looks neat I second this
Logan Martin
the ol' pringlecan necromunda
Hunter Brown
Ah yes, that old chestnut
Jaxson Bell
Those hex patterns look like hero scape tiles.
Bentley Rodriguez
Finished my armies for Halo Ground command. Much prefer painting 15mm over 28mm... agrax earthshade was a godsend!
Parker Miller
I wanted to use-up those colours... I couldn't think of another use for them... Then I started painting an RT Land Raider in the same colours... probably should finish that... it's been long enough.
Christian Nelson
...
Henry Parker
Thanks all! The fiend sits on those cubic stone bits that are part of the model, and I just filled the base out with a few peices of basing slate of comparable sizes, and then dipped the rest in aquarium/deco sand i bought at the craft store.
I think carrying the bone down to the base is a great idea, I'll hunt around for a good bit
Adrian Hall
so I'm about to use painters oil paints to paint my minis I'm wondering what I should be thinning them down with I checked isopropyl and it seems to be melting polystyrene or whatever GW makes their guys from (it makes it less defined and shiny) so what I use now? White spirit will likely do the same - or either this or isopropyl would be good when painted on so it can evaporate before it melts? I mean regular medium oil wouldn't be too greasy for non-absorbant plastic?
Jeremiah Scott
I used white spirits and suffered no ill effects on the plastic. Just remember to varnish the model before you apply it.
Owen Long
I've never tried this, but I've seen fancy painters on youtube do oil washes on regular minis after they've laid down some acrylic base colors and then sealed with a gloss coat. As far as using exclusively oil paints, maybe stick to metal models?
Daniel White
Looking for minis besides Reaper and GW for fancy dresses, like nobles might wear, or otherwise Victorian/high class. Corsets optional but encouraged.
Pic somewhat related.
Benjamin Sanchez
Hope this is the right place.
Trying to wash some FW resin models, Elysians for a kill team. Can't get rid of the shine on it with washing up liquid + water + toothbrush. Can anyone offer some suggestions, or should I just keep at it? Thanks.
Evan Price
will hardware store black varnish do? last three days I spent removing old paints from the models and removing sprue marks because the guy I bought them from didn't bother to either prime or clean properly
I just have to do this little batch for the game I want to use them in and I thought this could be a cool experiment metals are so much easier, being non reactive and such
Ryan Young
They are Magic the Gathering Planeswalker Arena boards that I wasn't using, and they are nice thick cardstock panels.
could look into Black Scorpion if their western range has civilians. If you can find them Carnevale should have a bunch of minis like that. Freebooter's Fate also has a bunch of minis that come with it. Wolsung might be a possible source, they do victorian Sci-Fi. On that note you should also check out In her Majesty's Name range from Northstar and maybe even the Empire of the Dead range, although I'm not sure the latter has much to offer for your request. I think Foundry's Warmonger range might have a Vampire dressed like that. They also have a regular Victorian Townsfolk collection (Which is similar to a line of minis reaper recently released too btw).
Pretty much all I can think of for now.
Caleb Gray
>Looking for minis besides Reaper
Dominic Walker
Working on 40k models here; I fucked up priming (used what was probably the wrong type of primer, and it was too thick/went on too thick to the point of devouring almost all detail), so I'm trying to remove it. What's the best way to go about this? Turpentine doesn't seem to damage the plastic, so should I just let them soak for a while? (only batched 3 guys, just in case something like this happened)
Jayden Williams
use simple green if in US
Chase Young
TTCombat might have some miniatures that would interest you.
Caleb Collins
Simple Green concentrated or Pine Sol
Leave them soaking in a tub for 2 or 3 days and the paint will brush right off. Won't hurt any plastic or even superglue.
Benjamin Walker
I'm getting in to hobby modelling and painting over the summer. I do have one question though, how can I determine just how good tools like drills and nippers are? And what are some good brands for high quality tools? Are citadel paints worth buying? What are some better alternatives?
Kayden Sanders
privateer press and malifaux should have some although I'm not sure how the latter's scale lines up these days
Carson Turner
White spirit is working for me. If turpentine isn't damaging the plastic, I don't see why you shouldn't use it though.
Alexander Murphy
I love the detail on the jackal shields. Planning on adding some ODST soon?
Gabriel Roberts
for the base - rhinox layer -> doombull drybrush on sand, skavenblight dinge on rocks, allover agrax, then allover drybrush of ratskin flesh
Luke Jackson
What are some non-metallic color schemes I can use for my necrons because I'm a snowflakey faggot?
Jack Jackson
I have never sealed my shit before, but I realized I'm going to need to because of magnetized weapons with handle grips. They'll scrape the paint off the hand real quick. Wtf do I do/use?
Leo Green
...
Joshua Wilson
Cheers dude. The UNSC are my mates, but he cant paint. I do think he's gonna pick up some ODST but next on the list are a Scorpion and a Wraith.
Oliver Ward
White and Yellow
Gabriel Butler
I thought these guys look cool, any idea how I can get that white?
Easton Campbell
Infinity thin coats.
na actually just primer it white and you're 90% the way there.
John Scott
How does my cataphractii look? Areas to improve? Some clean up needed.
Cooper Reed
varnish
Jose Mitchell
Looks like they were primed white and the recesses washed, then had a thin layer ontop of the primer, then highlight. Have fun doing the guns though.
Matthew Fisher
What kind? Can I just go to Walmart and get varnish like primer?
Tyler Lewis
that's solid painting, but the color scheme itself seems a little boring.
Jose Miller
army painter anti-shine testor's dullcote GW purity seal
Isaiah Nelson
loving this rust effect
William Parker
What are your guy's thoughts on Reaper Paints?
Robert King
Good, just be more careful. You have a bunch of hairs stuck to the helmet, and some paint is getting to where it shouldn't be on the model. Plus, I would probably go over the joints/soft armour with nuln oil, just to make them cleaner (don't get any on the plates). Drybrush the leather skirt-things to make them stand out more, as they currently look like a mass. And do something with the base, so it contrasts heavily with the model. Then just make some touch ups and your model should look excellent.