WIP General

"Never Made a General Before Hope This Works" edition

Work In Progress - Painting, Converting, and Sculpting - General

>Citadel Painting Guides:
mediafire.com/folder/drb4mezm6792i/not_citadel_nothing_to_see_here

>Figure painter magazine issues 1-36
mega.nz/#F!0AIGDAxL!xOT6MK3oiGpBB1pQaNy5lg

>Paint range compatibility chart across manufacturers
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart

>Painting Videos only
mega.nz/#F!fkcliY4L!mhdmIs2lT3mFG3VwoLO8Qw
mega.nz/#F!XEJSFDCL!9ZZKiLi6M_wguI1uTpyjPg
mega.co.nz/#F!WUsUlSLb!556OumKLhusFd9Fw5dBMdA

>DIY Lightbox
youtube.com/watch?v=OyxzC5kqbyw

>DIY Spraybooth
starshipmodeler.com/tech/pa_booth.htm

>DIY Wet Palette
youtube.com/watch?v=96mjmqWTPfM

>How to Moldlines
youtube.com/watch?v=A4LZ8iCSkeU

>Fuckin Magnets how do they work?
youtube.com/watch?v=w8Tkw7ttTIo
miniwargaming.com/magnet-guide
bolterandchainsword.com/topic/297605-tutorial-magnetisation/

>List of mini manufacturers for converting and proxy
pastebin.com/p6bVhGsg

>Stripping Paint (yes, the ellipses are part of the URL!)
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Dakka_Modeling_FAQ:_How_to_Strip...

>Priming With Acrylic Gesso
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Priming_With_Acrylic_Gesso

>Green Stuff Casting
fromthewarp.blogspot.com/2011/11/molding-and-casting-shoulderpads.html
masteroftheforge.com/2012/05/21/rubber-molds-green-stuff/
masteroftheforge.com/2012/07/17/green-stuff-cast-shoulder-pad/

>On the consequences of insufficient ventilation
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chronic_solvent-induced_encephalopathy
hse.gov.uk/pubns/indg273.pdf

>This planet is ours, witch!
youtube.com/watch?v=7_b-qBTul44

Other urls found in this thread:

wargamevault.com/browse.php?filters=0_40209_0_0
twitter.com/NSFWRedditVideo

I wanted to make OP this time.

How should I paint a wall to look as if a scale appropriate dude painted words/symbols on it? Said scale appropriate dude would be using a brush and paint, because fantasy.

I'd do it the same way you'd do the writing on large purity seals.

Anyone have any experience/comments about Krylon Gloss/Satin Crystal Clear? Thinking about getting it to seal my shit.

Or Krylon Kamar Varnish, actually.

So... pen? I've never done that.

i use a micron for scribbling small things like scrolls and purity seals, works great!

Any colour theory anons know what's a good non-metallic colour to contrast with beige/tan?

Purple, dark/olive green, blues.

What's the best rattle can primer? I'm using Tamiya enamel and Vallejo paints just peel right off it.

I used a $3 can of Krylon grey from Walmart and had superb results. Then, I sprayed chaos black over it because I needed the dark undercoat for my Night Lords. I wasn't spraying metal, but I have resin bits and weapons.

If your shit is coming off, I think you need to clean them, though. That's probably the release agent.

enamel paints and acrylics don't really play nice together, so perhaps that's the problem here?

I had that thought, been told by multiple people that it should matter. I however an still skeptical.
Naw, I clean the models and wash my hands before priming and before painting, The worst was a metal F-86 where I was rubbing the paint off with my thumb, the day after it had been painted. Now to be fair. I also pressed some of the engraved details off, so I guess I have retard grip strength or something.

what size do you use? I'm thinking of getting one myself.

>pressed some of the engraved details off
>retard grip strength
your poor penis.
How long are you waiting to handle it? I've heard some primers can take a while to actually bind.
I usually give mine 24 hours.

Krylon's been sort of hit or miss with me over the years; a couple of years ago I would have said nothing to worry about, but they seem to have changed their formula recently. Last time I used thir gloss, it alligatored my acrylics. Kamar might presumably be safe (it's for art), but test on something first.

Acrylics and enamels play fine together, but whatever you're spraying on to has to be fully cured first (not just touch dry).

i think the one i use the most is the 0.5 or 0.1

half done of the last yiff pack in my backlog.

Nice.

You know, it very well have been me being impatient, I didn't paint all winter so I don't remember. Nest time I'll leave it be for 24 hours and see if that's better.

Finally got the last of the bits I need and put together my Librarian in Inquisitorial employ. I still need to fill the gaps on his cloak, but other than that, how's he look?

He looks like he's ready to smash some heretics and xenos.

Perfect. The best two out of the three. Don't have him smash mutants, his battle-brothers won't like getting force staved.

Bump with work stations.

I wholeheartly suck at painting machines.

I've been trying to find a way to make my terain look more intresting by making it feel worn and old.

But I can't for the life of me figure out a way to make metal and industrail yellow like pic related.

Any talented gents out there that can help me get a good grimy looking metal look?

I'm not so much looking for the colour of extream rust as I am the underside of a train-ish in colour.

Thought? What is your opinion on cork board under the model. I'm doing this for all my hh models to make small craters at their feet.

hands are on the comically large size, other wise p cool

paint the metal, do some highlights, and then go to town with nuln oil, agrax, drakenhof nightshade, typhus, etc.

What can I use to model an Onager Gauntlet onto my Tau Commander, Veeky Forums? I was thinking of attaching the arm mounted siege drill, minus the drill part, from the assault centurion kit onto my Commander's arm. Then stick a giant spike in the front of it and make it a pilebunker.

Pic related.

I unfortunately only had a Paladin force stave, and given my poor experience with power axes in the past I opted to keep everything as one piece and deal with the big, meaty claw on that side. The left hand's actually a little small from other angles, it's from the Mk3 sprue. Foreshortening just makes it look huge.

Do you guys paint your models before sticking them together or after?

paint first but partial assembly. situational.

Depends how complicated they are.

I tend to partially asssemble mine, like leaving the bolters off my marines or shields off my fantasy models.

Huge models like Coven Throne should be painted in several sub-assemblies if you want to be able to reach all areas of the model.

With any dude holding a gun in front of him with both hands, I'll usually glue everything but the front supporting arm. Dry-fit the arms, blu-tack them to get an idea of where they go, then glue the arm holding the gun grip on, while using the tacked supporting arm as a guide. Then I take the supporting arm away, prime the dude, paint him fully and paint the supporting arm separately. Then stick it together after. Why?

Because I hate knowing that there's un-painted bit on the chest that almost no-one will see, but I know. I know it's there. And it will haunt me for all eternity.

It should come as no surprise that I've painted a total of ten Fire Warriors in five weeks. But the rest of the time was spent assembling the rest of the force and playing some test games before I take it out on a tourney spin.

I would live in fear of that model falling over.

Depends on the model. My Knight is in about 10 pieces and will likely stay that way until it's fully painted (I intend on magnetizing its carapace and carapace weapon, the arms lock in on a rotating lock, and I magnetized the waist). Infantry with pistols get painted as a solid piece. Infantry with rifles get two pieces, the gun and everything else. Bikers are two piece, rider and bike.
The only exception is Devastators; I use the FW backpack-connected weapons, which are impractically fragile enough that I fear trying to keep them detached. So they get fully built before I even prime.

Like the fact that you drink medium beer while painting.

Built myself another looted Carnifex counts-as-Deff-Dred

great imagination in this model

I haven't played since 5th Edition and am considering starting with space marines again.
All my models are horribly painted so I'll need to repaint them, but I'm wondering what scheme to go with.
I was thinking of Iron Hands, but they're quite dull, so I want to find a way to liven them up a little.
I tried these two schemes (admittedly with little variation).
Does anyone have any advice on livening up the Iron Hands colour scheme.

Cork always looks like cork. It doesn't look like anything in scale.

Does anyone know how big a SM biker is compared to a thunderwolf cavalry?

>looted carnifex
>like the other 1000000 looted carnifexs
so original

Reminds of the Brumak from Gears of War
Should look awesome, mate

Go nuts with weathering. Have chipped paint flaking off everywhere, edge highlight every single bullet hole. And of course, put some cyborg bits on them. Go tear up some Mechanicum kits for bits, grab joiners from space marine centurion weaponry and throw pipes and cables fucking everywhere.
Don't do all of that necessarily, but kitbashes are the best way to give Iron Hands some visual flavour.

Is that supposed to be a light metallic, or white?
I don't think too much white would look good on them.
What makes Iron Hands look cool is all the metallics.
Both silver/steel ones and bronze ones.
That and the cogs and augmentations.
You'll want lots of cyborg arms, legs and heads.

>trusting your minis structural integrity to cork
>even if pinned its still shit

Id rather have a secure plastic on plastic bond

Why do people use cork bases? They never look good, unless you spend an inordinate amount of time and effort chopping it into shape, and mostly they just plop it on top of a cork plate with torn off edges. I don't get it.

In addition to what the other anons said, you could go for a dark metallic black, not flat black. If you look at some of FW art and painted models, they made theit IH like that and it's much better in my opinion. The easiest way to do this is to use Vallejo Air Gunmetal, which gives a nice dark mettalic colour and is easy to wok with.

Help. It's too humid where i live to use spray primer, is paint on primer acceptable and if so should I thin it before applying?

This. I am slowly learning to base around my models after gluing them to the base, with plastic glue. I superglued some orks to bases with crackle paint on it and it's an absolute pain in the ass.

>0 effort (perceived)
>dramatically better than the other option that is 0 effort (nothing)

How do you do metallic black? Dark metallic, and glaze over it with black?

Vallejo Black primer is good, thin it just a little bit after shaking it well, and let it cure completely, i.e several hours (I leave it a day just to be sure) to make sure it's good. 2 coats are enough before you can start painting on it.
If you want to paint bright colours/white, use their grey primer. The white primer is shit.

Depends on what you do with it. Those single, fuckhuge chunks always look weird though.

>New edition coming
>Haven't played in years
>New paint means that yellow is actually fairly easy to do
>Can finally do Imperial Fists

Any current IF players know a good scheme for them?

I would use the color I just told you. Here, I put some on a plastic lid. If you want it even closer to black, and not very dark grey, just put a wash of Nuln Oil Gloss on it I guess.

vallejo sell a metallic black but nulning the shit out of things also works.

Just do their trims black and not yellow or red. Black and yellow is always ace, you know what it is.

Newly returned to the hobby, how am I doing? (green is the primer)

That's the plan. Was gonna do them as a fluffy 5th company.

Yep, I made the same mistake. I've got thirty crackle painted bases to work through. They look great, far better than the ones that I crackle painted after attaching the mini... But attaching new minis is hell.

Should I thin my Nuln Oil before applying it to a Fire Warrior with this colour scheme? I'm going to layer on Russ Grey over The Fang that I'm using on his armour.

Wargame Vault has a buttload, including a bunch of free ones.

wargamevault.com/browse.php?filters=0_40209_0_0

Yes, I'd do a 50/50 mix of wash and water. Just do your highlighting with your base colour again and it'll be fine.

I finally got my Kickstarter armies for Dropzone Commander. Anyone have tips or instructions for magnetizing everything?

Dropfleet Commander. I'm a retard.

first time painting deathwing in a while

thoughts? i feel like the highlights are a bit too white

1/2

2/2

Who else stingy here?

I'm so stingy I didn't even buy an airbrush

I like it. Very clean for the most part. Main gripe would be the studs on the legs are messy. I learned for those using a much more thinned wash with medium works, or something lighter like a sepia tone would make it a smoother effect.

Some bright highlights on the eyes would make them pop more too, as well as adding some color to the camera lens mount on the shoulder

Obligatory drill the barrels before someone else points it out.

Not him but why don't you go convert something insteas of whining fag

this

so many people play 40k the chance of you having an original idea are slim to none

I recently picked up a pot of Citadel's dry paint (Lucius Lilac) for highlighting my Emperor's Children. It's certainly useful for drybrushing, and does have a nice effect (not in pic, it's from months ago). However, does anyone have tips for using it effectively? While it does work, I feel like too much paint is getting spent on the paper or sponge I brush it off on to get it to the right level of paint. Or is that just how it is?

I never weathered anything, and I'm about to make a steam tank, what should I do? There will be green, yellow and steel parts on it

the op has a very nice publication called the weathering magazine.
Go check that out.

Then look for references of weathered materials that you can use for your model.

That's just how drybrushing works, user. If it's working, don't fuck with it.

Anyone here ever use Woodland Scenics snow powder? I'm working on high mountain bases. I picked up Vallejo's snow and I'm unimpressed, but I've been recommended Water Effects with powder snow as a better way to get what I'm looking for. Any thoughts? Also, what would I even apply that with?

Aight, thanks mate, just wanted to be sure. I haven't lived near a LGS in years now, and for the most part all of my painting skills have been learned through trial, error, and Simple Green baths.

It's a bit early to tell. Btw, why did you go Green if you were going to paint it all blue?

/wip/ and other GW threads have an autist who does this on every thread. Yesterday he was ripping into someone who bought a cover to protect their rulebooks. He's just... as ASDA would put it.... Extra Special.

ya the whole point of dry brushing is that the majority of the paint comes off the brush on the pallet / paper towel, leaving a small film of almost dried paint on the brush


if you dont get enough off you will be basically applying a general coat to your models.

Enamel washes are easy mode for metals. Just check YouTube tutorials.

It makes sense considering they are designed for historical tanks and stuff.

Recently got a Monolith, and wanted to add old damage scars to it, Was thinking blast marks of missile impacts that failed to penetrate, which should be simple enough.

The harder idea was melta and las cannon hits, which should produce a melted effect, any ideas on how to mimic this on a mini?

Just gloss it and pin wash with watered down black.

Depends on model, usually I'm trying to assemble as much as possible and leave myself place to paint everything without frustration - sometimes full asembly, sometimes I leave arms/weapon/backpack separate.

That damage wouldn't last long on a Monolith, given that it's Living Metal hull would be regenerating the damage almost instantly.
But, if you do want to give it a semi-accurate look, see image related.
Though that is massively zoomed in (it's an electron microscope image).

>all these space marines
I bet all of you drive Hondas, prefer vanilla ice cream and your favorite superhero is superman

>Why did you go green

The only primer spray I have is green, I use them on my green armored dudes.

>prime zandri dust
yellow metal:
>wash sepia
>wash cassadora yellow
>glaze lamenter yellow
>sponge brown to do battle damage
rusty chains and other stuff
>wash agrax and nuln untill happy
>stipple/sponge diffrent tones of orange
>wash agrax again just in case

>Have green primer
>Playing FUCKING ORCS
>Ehhhh fuck it ill paint the majority of the mini/skin blue

.... why?

Because not everyone takes the easy way out user. Some people want to do the ideas they have in their head, not whatever comes easiest based on the materials at hand.

Still fucking weird though. Who only has spray green primer? I can understand only having white or black, but green? Even if you play Orks or DA it's kinda questionable.

I like blue skin. When I used to play a few years back, my 40k Orks were blue.

Because I bought it for the green guys. As I said, newly returning!

the other user has it right from a fluff pov though. Would probably look more like the T-1000 from Judgement day.

Decided to get back into 40k for the new edition. Painted my first sister today! Looks better irl though lol

>As I said, newly returning!
Fair enough. Usually people don't say those sorts of things without hyperbole though.
>"I'm just getting back into the hobby guys"
>returned 1-2 editions ago
When rare to see someone who actually meant it literally.

>tfw you want to get back to painting stuff after a ~6 year hiatus
>tfw you find paints you didn't know you had, nor remember ever using or buying them

Yeah, I definitely mean it literally. I stopped playing 40k in the run up to 6th, and only started collecting AOS last month.