WIP - Work In Progress General

No WIP thread on Veeky Forums?!? Emperor's Teeth! That's HERESY!!!

>Citadel Painting Guides:
mediafire.com/folder/drb4mezm6792i/not_citadel_nothing_to_see_here

>Figure painter magazine issues 1-36
mega.nz/#F!0AIGDAxL!xOT6MK3oiGpBB1pQaNy5lg

>Paint range compatibility chart across manufacturers
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart

>Painting Videos only
mega.nz/#F!fkcliY4L!mhdmIs2lT3mFG3VwoLO8Qw
mega.nz/#F!XEJSFDCL!9ZZKiLi6M_wguI1uTpyjPg
mega.co.nz/#F!WUsUlSLb!556OumKLhusFd9Fw5dBMdA

>DIY Lightbox
youtube.com/watch?v=OyxzC5kqbyw

>DIY Spraybooth
starshipmodeler.com/tech/pa_booth.htm

>DIY Wet Palette
youtube.com/watch?v=96mjmqWTPfM

>How to Moldlines
youtube.com/watch?v=A4LZ8iCSkeU

>Fuckin Magnets how do they work?
youtube.com/watch?v=w8Tkw7ttTIo
miniwargaming.com/magnet-guide
bolterandchainsword.com/topic/297605-tutorial-magnetisation/

>List of mini manufacturers for converting and proxy
pastebin.com/p6bVhGsg

>Stripping Paint (yes, the ellipses are part of the URL!)
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Dakka_Modeling_FAQ:_How_to_Strip...

>Priming With Acrylic Gesso
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Priming_With_Acrylic_Gesso

>Green Stuff Casting
fromthewarp.blogspot.com/2011/11/molding-and-casting-shoulderpads.html
masteroftheforge.com/2012/05/21/rubber-molds-green-stuff/
masteroftheforge.com/2012/07/17/green-stuff-cast-shoulder-pad/

>On the consequences of insufficient ventilation
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chronic_solvent-induced_encephalopathy
hse.gov.uk/pubns/indg273.pdf

>I am the hammer! I am the point of His spear! I am the mail about His fist! I am the bane of His foes!
youtube.com/watch?v=JjaYW5Cnr5k

>Previous thread:

Other urls found in this thread:

youtube.com/watch?v=rMbATaj7Il8
twitter.com/AnonBabble

What is the best product for dealing your finished models? I tried both Krylon and Rustoleum Matte clear spray on a couple test models and both ended up putting a frost type effect on them. I'm spraying in a ventilated area and the temperature and humidity are both fine so it's got to be the spray. What do? I'm about to go out shopping for something else so I'll take any advice I can get

>What is the best product for dealing your finished models?

I use Army Painter Anti-Shine, and it works well for me, but I've heard a few folks grumble about that "frosting" effect with it too. Has never happened to me, though.

Just got done shading.

I'm trying to rescue my Marines from the hell that is Vallejo air metals. Right now, I'm just looking at getting some alternative figured out. What's the best way to get a black steel color, similar to Vallejo's air-metal Steel? Metallic medium and Abaddon Black? Leadbelcher and Abaddon Black mixed? Leadbelcher with a lot of Nuln?

The inconsistency of this Steel is driving me crazy, and it really isn't worth the savings to be this much of a pain in the ass.

Uh, I remember someone saying something about distance, can't remember if frosting is from too close or too far away.

>What's the best way to get a black steel color
you could try graphite powder over black.
know it's used in historical models, but you'll probably have to seal the models before applying any other colors since it'd rub off otherwise.
You can also get metallic weathering powders for this.

Drowing the mini in black wash is possible, but you can always tell how it was done.
Mixing metallics with paint works too, but if you mix a bright metallic paint with black you'll end up with bright sparkles.
So you have to have a paint with dark flakes in it, otherwise it'll look awkward.

>graphite powder black
Though I'm not the same poster, I have the same issue as where every sealant I try fucks it up badly.

I do have a bottle of Metal Medium that I picked up to mix my Librarian's armor colors; would that (the Vallejo one) be dark enough to not look terribly weird with black?

Legion of the Damned in various stages of completiong. The guy with the combibolter is done, but not based. Only shooting for tabletop standard.

>I do have a bottle of Metal Medium that I picked up to mix my Librarian's armor colors; would that (the Vallejo one) be dark enough to not look terribly weird with black?
Can't help you there.
No idea what the Vallejo medium looks like in person.
You can mix some up and try on a scrap of paper to see if it looks alright, though, if you have it already.

Well, therein lies the problem; even the Vallejo Steel looks fine on paper. Mix it, perfect. Put it on the wet palette, perfect. Take it FROM the wet palette and put it on paper, perfect. Put it on SKIN, it's perfect.

Put it on the model and it turns white.

Was the center marine drybrushed? I like the effect it gave him. Armor looks very worn. Did you use just the basic Dawnstone dry to do it?

>Then I have nice looking bases to give the models more colour.
Well I'm not done yet. I'm just going to finish my entire army before basing them so they look as coherent as possible.

I actually did all of the marines in greyscale and then used nuln oil to build up to black. I wanted to give their armor a scorched black look rather than just painting and highlighting it black. The center guy is my latest attempt, while the guy without a head is the first.

The center guy was based with mechanicus grey, layered with dawnstone, and brushed with administratum grey before being heavily washed with nuln oil several times. Its a pretty quick method and I think the results are solid. It also lets me do a fading effect like the guy with the fist on his breastplate.

>Put it on the model and it turns white.
sounds like a technical issue.
I don't really know what might cause this to happen only on the model though.
What are you thinning with? Or you are getting a funny reaction from your primer maybe?
Does it work over regular acrylic paint?
Have you tried airbrushing another layer of regular black paint or matte coat before using the metal?

>What are you thinning with
I've tried water, or not thinning at all. No change. Though unthinned goes on surprisingly well, it's still not pretty.
>Are you getting a funny reaction from your primer maybe?
Leadbelcher and Retributor work perfectly fine on the same model, so only if it's an issue with Vallejo's formulation, and I've used their non-metal paints directly on the same primer with no issue.
>Does it work over regular acrylic paint?
I managed to successfully cover a Leadbelcher-painted area with a coat to slightly darken it, though I'm still nowhere close to the label or advertised color.
>Have you tried airbrushing
Don't own an airbrush. Sadly.

I'm afraid I don't know what else could be causing it.
I only know that the whole whitening thing is something that might happen with GW glazes if the paint is not properly mixed.

And I know that people sometimes underestimate that Vallejo paints need a bit more shaking than GW stuff.

So... this is kind of the 'have you tried turning it on and off again'-question of painting, but are you sure you've mixed the paint thoroughly before trying to paint with it?

If that's not it, I have absolutely not clue what else it could be.

>drybrushing
>ever
You are all grown men. Why would you keep drybrushing like a 10 year old who rubs blue colors over his ultramarines with a old toothbrush.

It doesn't look "worn", it looks sloppy and lazy and dirty.

This isnt a WW2 miniature game where you need to simulate wear and tear by making the model dirty. Its super cartoony and thus the wear and tear should be painted on rather than just dipping the model in wash and drybrushing on it so it looks super "battle damaged".

>You are all grown men. Why would you keep drybrushing

>It doesn't look "worn", it looks sloppy and lazy and dirty.

Well they're Orks and it's supposed to looks like a streaky mess done in a hurry before the owner comes back.

Possession being 9/10ths and a snazzy paint job the last 1

I drybrush because I hate stark highlight lines and am far, far too lazy to attempt to blend in addition to highlighting. So I drybrush the highlight color on and then highlight the edges with a brush.

Yep. I actually went back and did more today after shaking/mixing the paint for a solid five minutes straight. It was a little darker, but didn't come out well at all.

I dunno. I don't like metallics, but I play Arthurian-themed knights in shining armor, it's kind of a necessity.

Looks like Max Branning off Eastenders

Was asking in the last thread if I should bother magnetizing my boyz (and nobz) or just stick with the dredd from the starter kit. One person has said to just stick with vehicles and the like so I was wondering what you guys did with your spare bits since this box seems to come with plenty of extras to spare.

>always thought an airbrush is like 1000 bucks
>google it recently
>its like 20
Uh... compared to the general cost of the hobby that's nothing.
What speaks against using airbrush?

you should get one, they're great.
Don't fall into the trap of thinking that it'll totally replace regular brushes though.

decent compressor's going to cost maybe a couple hundred, also a proper mask and either a well ventilated area to spray in OR a fan setup to compensate

Still perfectly affordable, but at least personally I just like hand painting more.

It's the compressor and whole setup that costs the big bucks not the actual brush itself

Literally the only things anyone should be drybrushing is dirt, certain types of fur, and metallics over metallics for a scratched up look.

Finished my praetor drake mantle, how's it looking ?

Is Wazdakka Red darker than Mephiston Red? I'm trying to paint pic related and the underarmor parts are darker red, so I'm going with Mephiston for the trim. Would Wazdakka work for that darker shade?

Was he havin a good ol swim in the sewers?
I'm not sure what you wanted to achieve, but it looks like his mantle is covered with turds.

Weird, they all worked really well for me. Or maybe I'm blind and don't see the flaws.

You save em, cut em up and get convertin'. Want a boy with two shootas? Want a really custom shoota? Scrouge from your bits.

Also, a bead organizer makes a great bits box.

I'm pretty new so I'm not even really sure what combos of arms on these sprues go well together i just was a little overwhelmed by the variety

...

unacceptable

...

You don't need to use digital zoom. That will just make the pic blurry and grainy.
Every mobile phone has a good enough camera that a normal photo will be good enough.

Save all the spare bitz you don't use, and even save the sprue frame (it can make for good rubble later).

If you're new, then it's time to start building up your Bitz Box. Organize it however you want, but you'll be glad later to have a wealth of leftover bitz.

Now this is shaping up to be a nice army.

HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA

Not that I wasnt already planning on it but what do you do with spare arms and especially how do you use your sprues to make your rubbles? (also something I had thought of but wasnt sure about)

Just needs a stippling of Jokaero Orange on top to complete the look

THIN YOUR PAAAAAAINTS

what's the model on the left

I love the freehanding on the mandalorian visors. Good work!

I asked last thread, but didn't get many answers. What are the pros and cons of the big 4 paint lines?(Reaper, Vallejo, Citadel, and P3)

My attempt at an Emperors Champion based off pic related. The head is from Maxmini, the body is from dreamforge, and the rest is mostly from Deathwatch Vanguard Veterans.

Anyone got tips for keeping models from not looking too "busy"?

I'm doing some Space Wolf conversions, and the Wolves like their trinkets, runes, and trophies, but I don't want things to look ridiculously over-blinged (any more than normal 40k). But these ARE command units, so...

Tips?

Finished the conversion of my BA Sergeants Bike. Cut up some nails to make the bars so it looks more like a Chopper.


How does it look?

fuckin' rad dude
youtube.com/watch?v=rMbATaj7Il8

...

New to this, been lurking for a while. Working on my orks. I have

separated what can't be painted easily to paint and then attach
removed mold lines
filled gaps with green stuff
drilled holes in the gun barrels

is there any step I'm missing before I prime them?

gaps?

When I put the arms on there were some clear lines, indents, whatever. I put green stuff there and tried to spread it flat to make the skin look continuous.

mount the stuff to something

Boba Fett?

should I not put them on their bases?

well yeah unless you wanna do your bases separately. I more meant the bits you've decided not to attach.

There are more differences from paint to paint than there is brand to brand.

There is no general rule between brands and anyone who says otherwise doesn't know what they're talking about.

How did you even take such a clear crisp picture no matter how much I try I can't get anything like that.

I think my phone has a strong cameea

There's really not too much difference outside of personal preference. Retards will tell you to only use their personal favorite, while non-retards just use what they like, regardless of brand.
I mostly use Citadel since my FLGS has the biggest selection of it, but I also have Vallejo Primer and weathering paints since those are pretty great. Never used P3 or Reaper products, but I don't dislike 'em. They just isn't a wide selection at my FLGS.

As much as it comes down to personal preference, I have to take a moment to pimp my all-time-favorite metallics ever.

Fuckin' Vallejo Liquid Gold line.

Mine looks real blurry compared to yours, on my webcam or on my camera it's bad.

Someone told me I should use the girl on the left as an Inquisitorial Interrogator.

The Scion is my swordsman, who I've finished and using as comparison to the others.

The Elysians I just put base coats on, but I'm finding it really difficult and frustrating to work with resin models! They take so much work to prepare and then they just feel magically harder to paint. Anyone else feel the same way?

I'm not a fan of working with resin, but once I've got them primed I haven't noticed a significant difference so far.

this. It's not something to get too hung up on.

hi, what do you think of my carry system? any more tips you could give me? im planing to make alpha legion

>models slide around in transit
NO user, DON'T DO IT! YOU CAN STILL SAVE THEM!
The box looks fine though. Just make way to keep the little lads from sliding about. Cutting circles in a little slab of foam could work.

They're most likely magnetized down, considering that looks like (?) a metal tray.

FFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFurry

Put something white behind them, like a sheet of paper or something, before taking the picture. Itll help the models stand out.

looks like frogs

it looks like shit because you need more light

Oi, just started painting a couple gretchin, new to the hobby. Im trying to get the thinning right, I having shook my paints yet before hand. I found it best to plop some on the cardboard, clean the brush, dip just a little water on the tip of the brush, then mix it a little and go to town. A couple if times it got waaaay too fucking runy and I find it dries really fast, any help to this?

Posted this on AoS so thought I'd share here too

Ah, maybe it's just me then! Or the models.

If I was a furry, why didn't I go for Space Yiffs or Space Lizards or something? Does buying one animal person model make me a furry? D=

I'll try that next time! Thanks!

I'll try and find a way to add more light when I take pictures, without it being glaring next time. Thanks for the advice!

I remember when you first started working on this, I thought it looked awful.
I'm glad you kept working on it and making it better, It's turned out really nice, well done.

Are there any good alternate heads for Dark Eldar? I'd like to have some be unhelmeted, but GW's heads just look so awful.

>I find it dries really fast, any help to this?

I have a bottle of Reaper Flow Improver (09106). When painting small things (eyes, gems, insignia, etc.), I use this instead of water to thin the tiny amount of paint I'm putting on my brush. It takes longer to dry than water. I suppose I could use it for larger areas, but if that's chronic for you, maybe you need to put together a wet palette.

There's a link for doing so in the OP.

Ok will look into the pallete, gotta say, REALLY inpressed with all the detail the wash brings out. Highlighting it with that was the nice lil cherry on top. I plan on getting more paints and brushes soon and try some more. Not as hard as what I thought itd be

Make it simple, and less is more. The problem with camo on miniatures is that it's very easy to make it too busy. Use a couple of distinct colours, maybe go with 3 colours, a base then 2 for patterns. Decide on a theme, look at actual camo patterns on google, and try to replicate it whilst keeping teh pattern simple and not too cluttered.

Your camo is kinda of murky, the colours don't stand out. Use less different colours, but use more of each colour you do use.

Thanks user!

More work on the disk and jewels.

Look at medieval scale mail armor. You have to many gaps for it to look like drake scale, it looks good so far though.

Working on DAK and Free French Forces for Bolt Action. Here are two tanks I'm working on right now. Added symbols today.

Learning how to paint vehicles. Advice would be great if any /hwg/uys here.

I'm sorry about the earthquake.

Fucking blurryy as shit. Sorry guys. This one should be better

Lol. Like i said. Sorry :[

Of the stug iii

How very dare you.

That's a great StugIII, fan of that tank. Wish it was statted properly in Bolt Action.

Lookan great! Loving the vibrant colours, blue seems far more vibrant than the gold though.

First time painting models.

I love my scarab head warrior.

AAAAAAH PRIME YOUR MODELS THE PAINT WILL RUB OFF

user look, I'm going to ask you question before I say anything else.
Are you serious? Are you looking for constructive criticism and/or tips to improve, or are you just trolling?
I'm going out on a limb him and straight up asking you. Be honest with me here and I'll return in kind.

The picture maks it look worse than they are.

I don't know if it is the lighting or not, but the scarab head in particular looks like it is painted better in real life.

Genuinly my first paint. Black base, the gold for the main part and red for the weapons/eyes.

You need to prime your models. You see all the grey crap in the rib Cage and under the guns? It's not supposed to be there. Go to home Depot Canadian tier any hardware store and buy some black acrylic spray primer, prime your models and then paint them. They'll look 100 times better .
Considering you painted over Bare plastic you can just prime over your current paint job and do it again

I'm thinking about using mildly greenstuffed necron warrior heads as masks for human infantry (cultists). Does anyone have any experience with this sort of conversion, and how retarded am I?

Best advice for dealing with mold lines on metal models? I never really have trouble with plastic, but I'm doing a whole bunch of metal models right now and I find the mold lines to be a huge pain in the ass to remove, ESPECIALLY any type of mold lines or loose material in tight nooks and crannies like armpits/between legs/etc. What's the best way to approach those tough to remove lines?

Alright user. Lemme give you some tips

>1. Prime your models
You can't paint on bare plastic. I mean, you CAN, but don't; the paint won't stick and it'll rub right off.
Go to Walmart and pick up pic related in either black, white, or gray. It's like $4 a can and it's some of the best primer on the market. Give your models a good coat of primer (not too thick, but make sure they're covered) before you paint them.

2. Learn to take photos of minis
Turn on the room's lights, turn your camera's flash off.
Turn off your camera's auto focus and instead focus it manually.
Get a backdrop. If your models are lightly colored, use a dark background, if not, use a white background. This is simple - just get a piece of printer or construction paper, fold it in half, and place it behind what you're taking a photo of.

Work on those two first, then get back to us.

Your models actually look pretty nice from an idea standpoint. I dig the gold+red scheme for Necrons. The Scarab-headed warrior is pretty good. Necron players don't tend to "your dudes" it up very often, it's good you're giving it a shot.

Needle file.

any matt varnish should not be used for primary protection. The army painter has even spelled it out for you, its a "anti shine", not much of a protective layer. And its used in conjunction of a gloss varnish, this is the stuff that protects the miniatures (metal casts especially!).

The frosting effect has to do with the temperature of the weather I believe. Only time I have had the displeasure of encountering the effect is on very cold days. Other than this, a matt coat also dulls any metal you have. This can be countered by using led-powder (buy it or scrape it of a pen), then use your finger to apply it. Brings that spark right back up.

Why turn off the flash if you're using a good DSLR? If anything, it can sometimes be better than room lighting.