/WIP/ - Work in Progress General

just keep going and handle fact that you own panda marines.

What did you do to them? White primer, wash all over and black trims?

I made my peace with Beetlegeuse long ago.
They're primed white, based ulthian, washed, then drybrushed ulthuan -> white scar lightly. After the trim is done I'll be going back and darkening odd white spots (like around the left shin of the right guy) and brightening whites. Hoping for it to keep a 10k year feel but not look as haphazard. Middle guy has a small test with gorillaman blue, but I'll be fixing that. didn't like it.

I will preface this post with apologising for it being LONG AS FUCK. Hey /wip/ I'm going to be ordering my first set of paints from GW soon for painting my dudes as Lamenters and wanted to know if I was overlooking any paints from my cart.
>Mechanicus Grey Spray
>Averland Sunset
>Abbadon Black
>Leadbelcher
>Bugmans Glow
>Mephiston Red
>Ceramite White
>Yriel Yellow
>White Scar
>Runefang Steel
>Liberator Gold
>Evil Sunz Scarlet
>Cadian Fleshtone
>Nuln, Agrax, and Riekland shades

They look malicious.

>Mechanicus Grey Spray
nah m8, don't go that way, make yourself a favour and take Averland spray.
Consider getting orange or yellow wash.
I'd also remove Ceramite White and White Scar, and go with Celestra and Ulthuan Grey. White paint tends to get gloopy after some time and it's pain in ass to use. Those grey colours plays as white perfectly fine, and got no problems with pimentation.

>>Runefang Steel

Stormhost Silver is better.

I asked about the Averland spray in a wip thread a while ago and was recommended the Grey Spray when an user said the Averland spray can come out hobby, there's a wash called Lamenter sYellow I just don't know anything about it, and I've heard praises of Ulthuan

Globby not hobby, fuck

I'll make the change, thanks user

Lamenter's Yellow is a glaze. It's not a wash, and works like a filter instead of shader. As you apply it on surface, it gets yellow tint. So for example applied on desaturated yellow (like averland sunset) it makes it more saturated, thus more jucy and birght. It can be used on white to make very birght yellow, or on too bright highlights to tone them down.

Thank you for the knowledge user

Payment in beer is always acceptable.

Also, would anyone recommend this game? I tried watching a vid with Whil Weaton on youtube but it's too hard, he's a flog.

Noooooooooo, easiest way to get a smooth yellow is to paint from zandri dust up to screaming skull and then applying layers of lamenters yellow glaze until you are happy with the result

It's a neat game, but finite amount of play throughs. It's more like a ttrpg one-shot than a regular board game. Don't remember the exacts, but like 3-5 missions to fulfill your quest with a regular and advanced mode.

The Zandri dust spray is out of stock online rn user but I'll remember this and try it when I can

Shame, heres a shitty pic for reference btw

A snap-fit Plague Marine from a warband called The Purge.

Just bases and shades so far but I'd be keen for any feedback. Really, really stuck on what to do for the base and rim.

I like the inverse Dr Doom kinda look you've got going on, but IMO the torso/helmet feel a little bland. Might be a good idea to throw in a spot colour like purple or something for the lenses, and maybe a different coloured trim on some bits of the backpack and the shoulderpads?

t. someone who read an article on colour theory in White Dwarf earlier in the month and doesn't actually know what he's talking about

This is the scheme from the CSM Codex and I'm just trying to apply it to the Plague Marines.

There is spots of Warplock Bronze on there, perhaps I could apply more.

Yeah, I think the bronze will help. Definitely layer up the trim to a lighter green. Adding red lenses will help.

weeabork update:

tried to imitate wappellious.blogspot.cz/p/blood-bowl-teams.html with these boyz, also made some bases

could have made a lot more progress but I've been lazy

That's some impressive green stuff

Pro Tip: Don't put acetone in an ultra-sonic cleaner with a plastic lid.

After painting three of them to completion, I just batch painted them, so there are a lot of mistakes I still need to find and touch up. And the boss to paint too.

Oh also they're not based yet.

Working on some Morlocks today

Highlights look a little thick, particularly the claws and you might need more bright green in the transition to complete the effect (unless the camera butchers it). Otherwise they look good, I like the choice of making the power claws green. Unusual choice on Imperial power weapons.

To that guy that asked about the BeesPutty ():

It's pretty good, as a bakeable clay it has some different properties to epoxy putty.

Pros:
>Infinite work time, pretty much, so you can mess with things as much as you like.
>Can be rebaked, so you can "freeze" your work by baking it in order to avoid smearing surfaces while you work on other parts of the model. Doesn't seem to lose much detail overall on successive rebakes.
>Easy to work. Softens up for application and basic forming, then solidifies somewhat after you've put it aside for a few minutes.
>Will take additional layers, with a little finessing.
>Sandable.
>Carvable.
>Capable of high detail - I mostly use the Firm grade; supposedly it holds detail better than the basic grade, and the Summer Firm/Xtra Firm holds even sharper detail again.
>Completely skin-safe - one of the reasons the creator invented it because he was allergic to epoxy putties.

Neutral:
>In my experience, clay additions to already-baked models don't attach as firmly as adding "wet" clay onto "wet" clay. On the one hand this can limit the durability of things that stick out (but maybe use armatures), on the other, it makes it easy to "ctrl-z" a new baked addition and take the model back to an earlier stage with some careful poking and levering.
>Sticky when soft. On the one hand, this is great for applying it to armatures (it doesn't need a greenstuff underlayer). On the other, it can grab tools a little, so maybe use a lubricant. Would probably bake onto metal miniature parts just fine, but I haven't tried it.

Cons:
>I would really advise against using plasticard or other plastics with it if you're not done baking/rebaking. I haven't tried it, but I strongly suspect they'd melt.
>Brittle. Don't count on making anything small that has to flex much. Large objects have some flex to them, but I wouldn't advise pushing them too far.
>Can be hard to find and you may need to ship it in from as far away as its native Germany.

No, but seriously. How do I paint the topknot?
I thought some greenish but I'm not sure.

Your productivity is impressive, and your painting is really good too!

I'd go for black:

Black undercoat
Eshin grey highlights
Fine mechanicus standard grey highlights

Pretty satisfied with the result, though I'll still keep an eye out to find bits for the chain necklace I wanted to give her (with an inquisition logo or something).

I'm kinda on the fence about the black trim. Maybe a dark silver/boltgun color with several black washes, instead? or a black that is highlighted up with steely blues instead of greys? I get that at the moment its just an ink wash, just things to try. otherwise I like the white pretty well

Why do I keep putting my models on bases before painting them?
Why am I stupid?
Why are stealth suits such total ass to paint?

...

You're good for your bases and shades, it's looking good so far.

It's an uncommon color scheme; For the base you need contrast, so if you plan on doing a lot of lighter grey highlights, go for a dark brown, like Stirland Battlemire with a light Zandri Dust drybrush. If you want to keep that dark color tone, maybe go for a bit of a lighter base, Armageddon Dust with a light Ushabti Bone drybrush. You can probably get away with having some little dry grass tufts, not too much tho.

As for the rim, I'm of the opinion that rims should always be black, but that's up to you. Deathworld Forest or Death Guard green could be cute on a DG force.

I almost always put my models on bases before painting. Painted basing materials generally look more "convincing" or at least more consistent then unpainted naturals

Sounds fun, I'll try it and post results when I get the paints

> a lot of lighter grey highlights
meant to say
> a lot of lighter GREEN highlights

Oh, definitely. But god I hate trying to reach the underside of stealth suits and the inside of their legs when they're on bases.

Also I managed to crack perfect paint consistency for smooth coats. For about five seconds.
[quiet reeeeing]

Thanks for the advice. This is him pretty much finished now aside from the base and a few lasting touch ups.

I was thinking Armageddon Dust, wash Agrax, drybrush Underhive Ash. Probably do standard Steel Legion Drab as the base rim, or Baneblade Brown.

Finally got around to putting heads on my CSM conversions. Also I replaced the Aspiring Champion's maul with an axe because the arm holding the maul was longer than his left arm.

Why no shoulder pads?

I don't have the shoulder pads I need yet, I still have to order them off of eBay

>I was thinking Armageddon Dust, wash Agrax, drybrush Underhive Ash. Probably do standard Steel Legion Drab as the base rim, or Baneblade Brown.

Sounds great, don't forget to post the results here when you're done !

Show me your Imperial Fists wip.

>spraying new model
>spraying thingie snaps off
>thick cloths of paint fly everywhere
>my model is covered in thick cloths of paint

Can this shit be salvaged?

>Wake up
>Check my moulds
>perfect recast of the storm shield I need

Damn that is a good feeling WIP, easily makes up for the fact I have to redo my pauldrons mould.

Dettol protects

Working on some custom electropriests by admeching up Kairic Acolytes with Kataphron and Skitarii parts. Heads are slightly larger but I can fix that with filing and a little bit of greenstuff, but the servo-arms I was planning to use as weapons are kinda hueg in comparison so they'll take some bodging.

Shall I keep the flame decals on the armour and robes? I'm making sure I even up the outside trim so it looks less Tzeenchy plus getting rid of some of the little seals and pouches, but I might keep the flame decals since they are Forge Guard after all.

Dettol is gay

Dettol will be there for you.

Dettol is also enough for extremely thick cloths?

That's why you don't build everything in one go and immediately base it. Duncan can make it work, but he also has the magic of editing at his disposal.
It's also the reason I loathe snapfit models.

So a few threads ago, an user mentioned how the Minotaur's don't have much going for theme aesthetics, aside from their chapter master. So I googled around, and found some nifty conversion bits courtesy of Anvil Industries and Scibor.
Was thinking of using pic related on some terminators, but which mark of terminator armor would be best, you think? Also if anyone has better suggestions for spears, I'm all ears, as "Sci-Fi spears" didn't net me much on google.

I like the scheme. I've got a bunch of Exalted Sorcerers I've been looking for differing schemes for an I think I'll use this for one of them.

The shields look nice, but IIRC only Hammernators can take shields, and I don't think rules for Breachers exist in 40k.
Custodes spears might fit for terminators, but are probably too big for regular marines. And you'd need to proxy them as hammers.

I figure I'd proxy them as TH/SS terminators, assuming my opponent isn't too autistic.
And as I recall, yeah, the Custodes spears are fucknormous.
I was looking through older WH Fantasy models for some spear to use, as Moloc's spear looks a bit Elf-like in the blade and inlay, but I'm still not finding much I like.

Chapterhouse had some great greek helmets, but i'm pretty sure they are dead at the moment.

Much apprecuated. It's straightforward: Ulthuan gray with nuln oil wash built back up to ulthuan then white scar
The trim is chaos black with eshin grey and a bit of mechanicus standard gray in places.
Then the brass bits are vallejo brass with agrax earthshade highlighted gold.
The staff handle is valejo aged bone with agrax.
The blue is Cantor blue washed with gulliman blue. Since it's my first use of it, I haven't actually decided on a highlight for the blue. if you have suggestions, that'd be great.

Well, I'll still take a look, thanks. Scibor has both SF Spartan and SF Roman helmets, both of which look pretty good, but having never worked with a terminator kit before (or at least, not since the 90's), I'm not sure how easy it is to replace them.

Got my first 8th edition game scheduled with a buddy soon, so I figured I should rustle up some extra points for my inquisition.

Early days. I already know that raised detail imperial fist pad will be the death of me.

Yeah.

Well, after a quick ebay search, the glade guard spears might fit. Although, I've only seen the metal ones, no idea about the plastic ones.

Hrm. I was looking at those as well.
A thought - would basing the Minotaur's terminators on Grey Knight termies be feasible? Looking at the sprue, it seems flexible enough, and I could cut down a lot of the ornamentation on both the suits and the halberds - it would make converting a hell of a lot easier than trying to mix and match arms from different games, and I think with the Minotaur's scheme, it should work out, especially if I mix in some spartan helmets. Maybe. I dunno, but I'm leaning that way.

RIP user's equipment.

Some plastics are okay, though - I don't remember which off the top of my head, but stuff like yogurt containers and "slippery" plastics (polypropylene?) are resistant/immune to acetone.

Last Death Guard of the box done.

now weeks of wait til Mortarion..

Everyone is wearing a helmet. I approve.

I have never had anything to do with Grey Knights, but I suppose as long as it's the same Terminator pattern and not an ancient kit, they should fit.

safety first, after all

Maybe Altdorf Guard Blue would be good for it? I'll start on it tonight and report back, as I think I have Kantor Blue as well.

I'm an idiot. I was using Caledor sky, not Kantor blue.
I have calgar blue, which I might 50/50 with caledor for the highlight.

you're supposed to only put a bit of wash onto the silver shoulders

it's not a wash, boss

wash, shade, they're the same thing.

>but what about glaze?

inks function quite differently

and I'm fond of the blued chrome look

>LEATHER SHOES
>SPACE MARINES

>HEY GUISE I MADE A CONVERSION

So, bronze armor with black and red complimentary colors. What color should the eyes of the helmet be? I'm hesitant to use more red when it features so prominently.

>mfw I like the leather boots, but everyone spergs out about them

I'm pretty sure its just one autist not multiple anons, and he's probably just but blasted that your chaos marines will look better than his chaos marinelets. I think it's great.

Thanks. To be honest I don't give a shit about anyone being autistic about the boots because, like I said, I really like them and why should I care about some random opinion on the internet. I just find it weird that it's being made such a big deal of when they're Chaos marines.

WiP wave serpent. Anyone have any tips? I feel like the highlights were a good idea but poorly executed.

The highlights are fine, but I think it needed some preshading (probably impossible to do without an airbrush; at least I've never heard of anyone doing it).

Modulation is extremely difficult to do without an airbrush, you *can* do it with a rattlecan but the inability to change the paint flow makes it very hard work to get a nice gradient.
Panel lighting is impossible without an airbrush afaik.
The paint looks pretty thick around those pointy bits on each side, you didn't paint straight from the bottle did you?

Anyone know what knight houses fought with the Fists during the Heresy? I want to incorporate the color scheme onto Perterarbo's base

really nice user

I sprayed the colour primer on too thick. Army painter primer seems to come out thicker than citadel and I'm not used to it yet.

fun

beautiful

Basecoats for the based god.

First match for the scorpion will be saturday, should be fun!