WIP / Work in Progress

You're not wrong but it's absolutely impossible to get.

kinda like wild corndogs.

Finished my first ever mini. In the future going to get a dip for the wash. I hated using my brush and felt like I was just covering shit in black and had to go back with an empty wet brush to grab excess.

Father of Brood coming through.

Experimenting with feathering not too shabby so far (imo)

try loading less liquid on your brush. Rub or roll the brush on your pallet or a paper towel. I would say dipping is worse for doing that sort of cleanup unless you don't care.

I'm having a lot of trouble in general with how much I should be wiping off my brush and how wet it should be before loading in general, for every stage. My paint thinness feels right but not my brush technique.

I like it, but what do you mean by 'feathering'?

Well that comes after your first mini. Less is usually the direction to err toward.

>impossible to get

6 usd per eel a single bus ride away for me

>love living in the tropics

H8 u

So much

Where can a middle of nowhere CONUS open get some

Roast my shit boys

...

Tell me how not to paint like a fucktard

Big fucking sprue mark on the right arm.
What the fuck is up with his left shoulder?
Whats with all the grey plastic, did you even prime this fucker?
Also T H I C C

Shoulda cleaned up your bits boi

Think coats. Wash, highlight.

Watch Duncan.

1. Clean your parts. No sprue nubs, no moldlines. Fill your gaps with green stuff where the glue doesn't do it's job.
2. Prime the model. Gray or the dominant color.
3. TWO THIN COATS
4. WASH AND HIGHLIGHT
5. STOP SHITPOSTING

Ya I should have

Grey primer, left shoulder applied way to much white way to thickly definitely should cleaned my flash lines and sprue marks up, thin my paints next time, it was my first model

Is he peppermint flavored?

Watch this
youtube.com/watch?v=8CHVvvwbbek

Clean the flash off next time. All minis, reaper in particular, have flash and mold lines on them when you get them. If you don't clean them off before painting it looks like ass afterwards.

Finally working again on this miniature. The ides was to test a variant of the style where I paint black outline not only on the creviced, but aldo the edges that I usually highlight.

I think the result is nice, but it is really stressing, since the black outline must be really clean and regular. Probably works better in larger miniatures with lots of sharp edges.

Also, I recently taught a small child how to paint, and I was paying attention to what keeps people from painting with really small strokes (the key for small, clean detail). I notised some people paint the strokes by moving the entire hand around the wrist or even the entire arm around the shoulder. This does not allow really small, delicate movements and strokes. It is better to grab the brush so that you can move it by retracting the fingers that hold the tip (thumb and index finger mainly) so that they pull the brush inwards. This enables really small movements, and an easy repetition of them. This leads to small strokes and clean, precise paintjobs.

Yeah, I see that now. When it was unpainted, I didn't think they were a big deal or that noticeable but they became way more apparent with paint.

Is flash different from mold lines? I guess I don't know what that is. On my frostgrave minis I ordered I filed off all the traces from the sprue.

Flash = really big mold lines. I was being retarded acting like they were different.

Paint makes mold lines stick out like crazy. I always miss some before I prime. You can just remove them after priming though, and use some brush on primer on the bare areas.

I put a bunch of minis in a jar with full strength purple power. The reaper bones came out fine but the 1 plastic deathwatch marine I put in is kinda rough looking. Anyone have experience with purple power?? I was under the impression it was safe for plastics

If its rough looking, it probably still has paint on it.

Multiple very thin layers of paint for subtle highlighting

...

top heresy

Still waiting for them to finish curing. Unfortunately I have learned it is absolutely necessary to tack the mini's down. The two that weren't because they stood just fine floated up, so at least two of the moulds are probably no good.

I'd hazard a guess and say that there is, indeed, still paint on it.

the layers of paint are coming off, scrub it with a toothbrush and it should clean up pretty easily.

Looks like he's made of mahjong tiles..

Got distracted by other projects but now it's time to get back to my Sons.

Some Scarab Occult in various stages of being painted.

>mfw spent $50 at Anvil industries just on conversion bits

IT WILL BE GOOD, MY FRIENDS

What did you get?

Absolutely metal. THIS is 40k.

Spartan helmets and shields, chain-polearms, one-hand pistols and some sights and red-dots.

Fuck the rules, I have plans for these Intercessor's and Reivers.

good job m8
Also, those might be the first cork bases I've seen that don't look like shit.

Those are some nice, clean models user. Damn good stuff.

The painting is nice so far, but what the fuck is that model?

Third one of my Electroservitors. I suspect I'll do one more Wolverine-pattern guy if that, my greenstuff skills are not sufficient to make the claws look good and it took forever.

I have removed the worst of the glob on his left hand, but I'm sure as hell not going to manage redoing the claw angles before I go completely insane.

Question for folks who've worked with the kits - are the arms from Primaris Reivers compatible with the Intercessors kit, proportion-wise?

Glad you guys like it. Last week I also finished the dark apostle I will be using when playing cultist heavy. As soon as I get my hands on that primaris chaplain I will build a second one.

what kit is the griffin chest piece from?

If Im not wrong its the fantasy empire greatswords kit.

sorry bud, I have that kit and its nowhere to be found. thanks anyway

empire general, should be

checked, no dice.

Pretty sure I'm going to redo the eyes. Otherwise I think he came out alright.

Doing that white Exalted Sorcerer I said I would do. I ended up not really liking the white and black so I changed it to white and blue. Still, I feel like this color scheme is one of those ones that looks like absolute dogshit up until the last brush stroke. Hopefully it looks better after some more work on it.

I'd say it looks better than my black and white even now. And yes, until you finish on white it looks like a bit of a mess.

The bones adventure continues. He's hella lumpy looking. Ive been bouncing between Princeton synthetic brushes and a WN series 7 and I think I actually like the Princetons more.

Will be glorious! Keep us posted user.

Beautiful execution and a great theme. Love this model, always have, great sculpt and you did it justice with that paint job.

>"Push me closer, I want to tell them about the glory of Chaos!"

Oh that's very nice, what is the base + transitional blue?

What colour is the tongue?

That's exactly how I paint actually....
I've posted alot of wip typhus images but I actually paint with only toothpicks and I do super small strokes by just retracting the thumb and pointer finger

Reposting from last thread.

Need to shade your white.

Otherwise goodjob

White and the helmet in general looks off,
Try using an off-white like Ulthuan/celestra Grey then do a thinned shade of nuln then reapply Ulthuan/celestra in non-reccesses then highlight with True-white. For the Visor try applying ardcoat to make it shine and reflect.

Bronze could use some highlights and paint the Spiritstones on his chest

RON!

I don't have any greys (just black and white). I should be able to mix something up.

How would you highlight the bronze? It's Gehenna gold (which I thought was the replacement for SHINING gold). Should I mix some runefang steel with it?

>finally finished
>realize I need to strip and repaint 15 more and find or make 10 bomb squigs
The ride never ends

needs more contrast I think, maybe if you put some shade in the recesses of his armor.

So I did end up lobbing off the old Necron scythe for a different one and started painting the actual sickle

Lemme know what u guys think

Also literally at a hotel for a convention painting while waiting for the gf to be done with makeup

Blade looks kind of flimsy, also there isn't a whole lot of contrast in colors on the armor overall so looks kind of flat and uniform in most places, not terribly visually interesting.
also the blade of a scythe isn't called a sickle that's a different farm tool

look neat thou

Built a few models for my witch hunters Inquisition but I'm really not sure on how to base them.

Definitely some kind of ruin, lots of beaten down metal and debris. If not that, the classical mud never fails

first test model for my primaris, not done yet, but looking for feedback on the armour, the weathering look ok? too little? too much?

gonna add some dusty/dirty washes to the feet when i do the base too.

The glow around the eyes doesn't look like glow, just kind of looks like someone smeared guacamole on his visor

Front right's head doesn't look great quality-wise compared to the ones around it...

Based them. Sorry about all the yellow lighting.

You see, the domesticated variety of corndog has been bred for many successive generations to produce a much more appealing and edible fruiting body. The wild corndog is quite unlike the ones we enjoy today.

Now with 80% less yellow!

I love the look of colored metallic. I initially started my asstarts in candy apple red, some deep golds with tamiya red, but its such a bitch to do with a brush and I'm having the hardest time doing any meaningful highlights that show up once covered in the red.

Why try to do obvious highlights with that kind off paint job?

Stopped work on the ScAvengers to finish Big 'Ed. Head from a stompa, arms from a Defiler. The rest is a hacked up and repositioned deff dread. Getting a second deff dread skortcha tomorrow to go into the empty weapons socket. Painted it up over several hours just to have it ready to field tomorrow, so I'll go back over it and add highlights later.

Cool idea, I like it. Got an in focus pic?

Phone camera sucks for macro, but I can't find my actual camera and tripod so its what I've got for now.

Anyone got advice on how to paint reptile skin? I ordered some stuff feom Mierce Miniatures and picked up one of their crocodile warriors cos it looked cool (and ive been trying to find a Smart Max Canopic Beast model for ages and settled on this instead)

Another question would be how far could i push the colour? Idk if i wanna do greens on this, i was thinking maybe reds or yellows, more warm colours. Thoughts?

Image is what i got

The metallic blue looks great but the eye glow is really too much. I'd say repaint and try a much gradual look. A green glaze would do wonders here

Start with a really dark green, then drybrush a slightly brighter green over the whole thing. Apply a green wash, then re-apply the drybrushing once it dries. Go in with a third, even lighter green and drybrush from the direction of the raised parts of the scales (usually from the tail towards the head). Once this is done, drybrush a beige-green for the underbelly and areas inside the arms and legs. Put a brown wash over the whole thing to make it look muddy.

Try drybrushing a lighter bone color like Citadel Ushabti Bone on it, other than that you got all the paints in the lines so congrats you got the basics down.

If you can find the dark elf painting guide there is a good step by step on painting cold ones that work for you

>kind of looks like someone smeared guacamole on his visor

GUAC'D

Alpha legion warp talon

Yes? No?

Some WIP plague bearers for my Nurgle horde. Can't wait for September releases